
Wolf’s Ridge Brewing
It’s getting hoppy in here. We talk with Chris Davison, the head brewer at Wolf’s Ridge Brewing, about sour beers, the brewing process, the brewing community, what other breweries in town you should be checking out, why Columbus is a young beer scene, and why that’s a good thing.
Shownotes:
Wolf’s Ridge Brewing
Sour beer (as defined by Wikipedia)
Red Legacy
Watershed Distillery
Homebrew Podcasts
Ohio Homebrew Clubs
Columbus Brewing Company
Seventh Son Brewing
Columbus Ale Trail
Combustion Brewing
RAM Brewing
Clear Sky Cream Ale
Lineage Brewing
Support for this episode of the Confluence Cast comes from Little Rock Bar. Little Rock Bar is located at 944 North Fourth Street in Italian Village. With 30 beers on tap, Little Rock Bar has happyhour from 4 to 8 everyday. Every Tuesday, get $3 draft beers all night while you enjoy Rock Your Cock Off Karaoke. Wednesdays is Everybody’s a Comedian, hosted by Travis Hoewischer, it’s like trivia but you prove your snark instead of smarts. Everyone’s night should have a little rock.
Read the transcript
Ladies and gentlemen, welcome to the Confluence Cast presented by Columbus Underground. We are a weekly Columbus-centric podcast focusing on the civics, lifestyle, entertainment, and people of our city. I'm your host, Tim Fulton. This week, I sat down with Chris Davison. He is the head brewer at Wolf's Ridge Brewing. We went deep into sour beers, the brewing process, the brewing community here in Columbus, what other breweries in town you should be checking out, why Columbus is a young beer scene, and why that's a good thing. You can get more information on what we discussed today in the show notes for this episode at theconfluencecast.com. Also, the Confluence Cast is on Patreon. Find out how to support this podcast on our website, theconfluencecast.com, or at patreon.com/confluence. The Confluence Cast is sponsored this week by Little Rock Bar. Little Rock Bar is located at 944 North Fourth Street in Italian Village. With 30 beers on tap, Little Rock Bar has happy hour from 4:00 to 8:00 PM every day. Every Tuesday, get $3 draft beers all night while you enjoy Rock Your Cock Off Karaoke. Wednesdays is Everybody's a Comedian hosted by Travis Haywisher. It's like trivia, but you prove your snark instead of smarts. Info, hours, and upcoming events at littlerockbar.net. Everyone's night should have a little rock. Enjoy the interview. Sitting down here with Chris Davison, the head brewer at Wolf's Ridge Brewing. Chris, how are you, sir? I'm doing great today. Good. We are sitting here at the Idea Foundry sampling the recent sour beer that you guys released, Terre de Sauvage. It is delicious, first of all. You guys are releasing another sour beer. What's that one called? Red Legacy. It's a Flanders red ale. Um, and, uh, compared to Terre de Sauvage, uh, which was a three-month beer that was fermented in the barrel with a mixed culture of different yeasts and bacteria, and it was kind of designed as a production, uh, sour for us. So I wanted to be able to produce a decent quantity of sour beer regularly and have it in our tap room or on store shelves rather than a flash in the pan once a year for the next five years-
Okay ... which is the way we could have gone, um, had we gone longer term. So Red Legacy is the opposite of that, and that was the, uh, I guess the second sour beer that I ever brewed at Wolf's Ridge, and it was in the barrel for 16 months. Okay. And the entire-
And we should... And just to cut you off here Sure ... we should say that Wolf's Ridge Brewing is a, is a restaurant and tap room located just north of downtown on North Fourth Street. You said production beer. What's... A- And I understand that to mean basically you just wanna be able to produce a lot of it- Mm
... or you wanna be able to keep producing it. What's the difference between a production beer and, what would you call it, a one-off? Yeah, kind of. Um, so we did re-brew Red Legacy into the same barrels. The same yeast culture survived in, in those barrels, and, um, is already fermenting away on a new batch. But because of the time commitment, 16 months, um, it's not really going to ever be a beer that is always available. Okay. Uh, we did-
So Red Legacy is special. It is very special, yeah. Especially because of that time commitment for us right now, um, you know, that's the longest aged beer we've ever released on a larger scale. Okay. But it was still only 500 bottles. Uh, and the same, uh... There, there were more barrels I guess, but the, the single run of Terre de Sauvage that we did in May, uh, yielded 1,500 barrels plus about 25 kegs. And, um, for Red Legacy we're gonna... We got 500 bottles and about 20 kegs, and that's all gonna be gone by, um, hopefully July 1st. If not, uh, the kegs may last a couple weeks, um, and make their way around town a little bit. And I'll save a little bit back at the brewery for special occasions, but that beer is gonna be gone in a day. Uh, Terre de Sauvage will be around, uh, for a while. So yeah, that's, that's the main difference is that it, it'll be around, um, all the time or most of the time in quantity.
And so how do you g- So why sour beer? It seems like a trend right now. What... I- Is it just interesting to you that you get to do something new? You've been brewing at Wolf's Ridge for round about three years. Yeah. You were at Columbus Brewing before that. Yep.
Why sour beer? I've, uh, I honestly always wanted to brew sour beer, and that was one of the first things I started asking the owners at Wolf's Ridge when I got hired on was I wanted to do two things that they had never done before, well, arguably three. I wanted to brew lagers. Okay. Which, um, the second beer that I personally designed as a recipe at Wolf's Ridge was a smoked lager, which was scary for a lot of reasons because smoked beer is not always the fastest seller, but-
Okay ... um, it's turned into our most award-winning beer. Um, it's called Buchenrauch. Uh, but then the other two things I wanted to do was barrel aging and sour beer, and, and really that goes hand in hand, at least for me, is that you age, uh, and maybe even ferment sour beer in a barrel. Uh, so within a year or less, uh, we started putting Dire Wolf, our imperial stout, into bourbon barrels and rum barrels. But, uh, it took a little bit longer to start doing sours, and the main reason for that was, um, there's a lot of expense and, as we talked about earlier, a longer time commitment sometimes for- Okay ... the sour beer. But there's also a risk of cross-contamination. And I think it's somewhat over-
Cross-contamination because... I mean, they're in barrels. What are they cross, cross-contaminating? Um, so because of the different, uh, yeasts and bacterias that are in there. And so even though, um, the beer is contained within a barrel And you may not see it leaking out of the barrel. Okay. Uh, it may hold pressure. Um, if you pull the bung off, some of the barrels, um, some pressure may actually escape and it, you know, you'll hear a rush of air come out. Um-
And you called it the bung? Yeah. Okay It is, it is a bung.
And so it is a bunghole. It is a bunghole. Got it. Yep. So despite all of that, um, it's still a wood vessel and wood is porous.
Mm-hmm. And so, uh, for example, when, uh, we were getting ready to package Red Legacy, we had to get it out of the barrels, and when we looked inside, after 16 months in our warm basement, uh, about a third of that barrel had evaporated. Um- Oh, wow ... despite being closed up the entire time, the wood is porous enough that, um, a lot of the water content evaporated out.
But that's not cross-contamination. No, that's not cross-contamination, but that's evidence that the, the wood is porous. And so, um, if air's getting in or out, so potentially can, um, microscopic, um, yeast or bacteria. Mm-hmm. And especially once you start moving that stuff around, if that barrel touches another barrel that's holding clean beer, like Dire Wolf, um, there may be yeast alive on the outside of that wood that migrates-
That's a lager, right? ... to the other wood. Uh, that's the imperial stout. Okay. Yeah. Um, uh, there are stories of some breweries that store two barrels side by side and, uh, um, one of them w- is Jester King down in Austin, Texas, and they recently re- re- released a beer. Um, I forget the name of it, but it was basically, um, it was all brewed to be one beer I think, but, um, some of it went into some sherry barrels and there's, I guess, a unique set of yeast that ferment sherry-
Okay ... wine. And even though the wine had been emptied and had been refilled with beer, that yeast was alive in that barrel, and it, that barrel had a unique flavor because of it, and then the barrels next to it tasted the same even though they were not sherry barrels, and that yeast somehow through touching, through the air, whatever- Right ... migrated into the other barrels and so they thought that was a really cool special thing. Um, there's another example-
So the beer is essentially a happy accident. Yeah, exactly. It's not what they planned for. Um, but it was also, you know, a form of cross-contamination. And then even beyond that is if you start using the same, uh, tanks-
Mm-hmm ... hoses, gaskets, et cetera, um, for, for sour beer and clean beer, um, the yeast and bacteria that we want in the sour beer to create that profile we don't want in, in our normal beer. Okay. And if it makes its way into that normal beer and ferments it, it could cause over-carbonation, uh, maybe bottle bombs, um, where a bottle would explode because it continues to ferment and-
Right ... creates too much pressure. It could cause off flavors or haze issues. Um, and sometimes there are happy accident stories out there where brewers accidentally create sour beer that tastes good, but more often than not, it probably tastes really bad. Okay. Um, and-
So let's- Yeah ... now, now that we've gone deep, deep down the path- Deep, deep down the rabbit hole
... of, of cross-contamination and the bad things that can happen to brewing beer in the process, what makes sour beer different? Is it you're doing a negative thing to beer, but in a controlled way in order to make it taste good? I feel like that's what you just inferred. Well, uh, i- in my case I'm doing a, I, I would say it's a positive thing because it's intended and I really like the outcome. Um, but I am a brewer that hates hearing the stories of the happy accident that- Right ... um, that yields a beer that's so good somehow, um, accidentally soured stout that we're gonna bottle it and sell it to you at a premium.
Mm-hmm. And it may be delicious, but I just kind of hate that story because to me it tells me that you did something careless- Right ... and you're trying to salvage that. And I think there's a lot of cases where brewers say that that happened and it's this great beer, but it actually is really bad. But the-
So what is different from sour beer from, like, regular beer? Um, so but, but yeah. So the difference between sour beer and a regular beer kind of depends on your definition of sour. Okay. Um, when you're using the term sour, then it, it probably just means there's some sort of aci- acidic content to the beer.
Oh, right. But sometimes people say sour and they're referring to a beer fermented with Brettanomyces, which is a form of yeast that does not create acidity, but it does create the typical sour funky profile that's in a lot of sour beers. And so what are we drinking right now? So, um, Terre de Sauvage is a mi- a mixed culture, meaning there's Brettanomyces, which is creating, um, a funky aroma and flavor, but also there's Lactobacillus, which is creating, um, acid.
Okay. And it, and there's not a lot of flavor or aroma coming off of the lacto, and that mixture is what, um, creates the profile in this beer. You can do a bre- beer that's just, like, a very clean yeast, like a Kolsch yeast plus Lactobacillus, and that's kind of what a Berliner Weisse is. Oh, okay. Where it's a very clean acidity. It's not funky smelling. Um, you can do a, a beer like, um, the Belgian Orval or Boulevard, um, Saison Brett, which you can find on shelves around town-
Okay ... that are not sour, but they have a very funky, grassy, barnyardy aroma. Um, that is really good. And technically some people will say those are all sours, but they're all drastically different. Okay. So it kind of depends on your definition.
So what's different about this, just to translate it- Mm-hmm ... a little bit, is simply you're adding another culture to it? Yeah.
Got it. Um, and- But it's n- but it's not a, "Oh, I have to heat it up and cool it down a whole lot," or it, it's not something where it's what I would think of as, like, a controlled burn- Mm-hmm
... if you know what I mean. Like, if you wanna age some brick, basically what you're doing is- Fucking it up, you're not fucking up the beer in a controlled way. It is truly just a different ingredient that's causing it to taste that way. Yeah, yeah. In this case, it's fully in- in- intentional. It is... These yeast and bacteria strains are famously a little bit more, um, temperamental or difficult to work with. Okay. So they're less predictable over time as compared to our, our standard ale yeast that we ferment Clear Sky, and Driftwood, and Howling Moon with. That yeast is super predictable. It, it behaves the same. Um, it's very forgiving. The cultures in our barrels, uh, for Terre de Sauvage, for instance, um, are not very predictable. And so far-
So then how do you... As a brewer, you're putting everything together. Talk about, for those that don't know, what is the preparation process before you're putting it into the barrel? It- What goes into it? So first we gotta, we gotta get a barrel. And right now we're working mostly, mostly with, um, spent barrels, um, that previously held, what I'll say a clean beer, a non-sour beer.
Okay. So probably Dire Wolf. Our imperial stout is, is usually what's in the barrel beforehand. And f- and it's just very economical for us to reuse that barrel. But in an ideal world, all of our sour barrels would be ex-wine barrels. They're just a little bit more conducive to that environment and the flavor profile that we want. And where do you guys get those? So most of our bourbon barrels are, really all of our bourbon barrels are Watershed.
Oh, okay. But we do have some Caribbean rum barrels, a port barrel, a sherry barrel, and a, uh... We just added a Marsala wine barrel from, uh, Italy to our sour fleet. But, um, so we're starting with that spent barrel, and if it has never had sour beer in it before, then there's two ways we can acidify it. Um, and typically I'll brew a recipe that's specifically designed to be soured since, um, in our case, we're fermenting sour beer in the barrel. I don't wanna ferment our sour beer in a stainless tank- Okay ... 'cause we have to use those for our clean beer, and I don't want to risk that cross-contamination we mentioned. So, um-
And s- and part of that is the, is a function of the size of your space and the number of- Very much so. Got it. Yeah. So we're fermenting, we're treating the barrels like they're a tank, and we'll brew a recipe to, um, hopefully create the flavor profiles and attributes that we want, um, with our grain. Um, low hopping rates help produce, um, or facilitate, um, higher acid levels.
Mm-hmm. So, um, our next Terre de Sauvage is, um, colored green, and the gold is very acidic. It is a different grain bill. The beer isn't green, though? No. No.
Okay. It... No, yeah, that's just the color. So yeah, the... We're drinking Terre de Sauvage Gold. Right. Um, very acidic version. Terre de Sauvage Green is the next one, and that one's dry hopped.
Okay. And it, um, it's, it's a lot, um, heavier on the hopping side. Um, the IBUs, the bitterness levels are a lot higher, so, um, the lactobacillus couldn't... It really can't tolerate high IBUs. Mm-hmm. So it's not very acidic compared to this.
So when you, when you put the ingredients into the barrel- Mm-hmm ... you basically do that, seal it up, and then do you have to turn it? You just wait 16 months? Um, so, uh, so then we wanna introduce the desired cultures, desired yeast strains.
Okay. And so we may, um, harvest them from a previous barrel or a culture we have on-hand for some reason. We may buy a new set of, uh, yeasts and bacteria, um, through our yeast supplier- Mm-hmm ... um, which is White Labs, the same that most homebrewers use-
Okay ... um, find at the homebrew shop. Um, but we, I... So depending on the beer I'm creating, I'll select certain strains of brett, or lactobacillus, or what have you, and we can add those to the barrel. Or you can actually add a small amount of, um, of fermenting beer from another barrel, and the, the live yeast in that beer will inoculate, um, the fresh wart, the fresh beer that you add to that barrel- Okay ... and then it'll start fermenting. But either way, it'll start going, and then a few days later, um, uh, usually one to, to three days, you'll start seeing, um, foam coming out of the top of the tank, and you know it's fermenting. It's creating carbon dioxide gas and foam.
And so then it's time to seal it up? Uh, so it's kind of always sealed, but we have, uh, mungs that are specially designed f- to allow fermentation. So they have a, um, center stopper that, um, when there's enough pressure, it pops up. And then it goes right back down. Kinda like a tur- turkey thermometer or whatever.
Okay. And it has holes in it, and it allows that gas and foam out so the barrel doesn't blow up. Gotcha. And then when it's done, that, um, that little stopper will sink back in and seal it up, or-
So how do you test it, especially with a beer that you're gonna be fermenting for 16 months? How do you... You just sort of like, "Okay, I'm doing some research." Like, you don't get to sample it- No ... as it goes. I mean, uh, we can sample from the barrel, um, throughout the process. But before creating that recipe, I have no guideline beyond my own research-
Okay ... and what I've had from other brewers. So I, I definitely do a lot of research before brewing into these barrels, but it's, it's a big risk. There's a, there's a large risk factor there, especially the longer that time commitment. Now, how much sharing happens in that community? Is it so you're looking at what other people have done- Mm-hmm
... but are they, you know, putting out a blog entry about how, "Here's how I did X, Y, Z thing"? 'Cause that seems pretty proprietary, right? Uh, for the most part, that's one of the great things about craft beer is that, um, there is a lot of sharing going on right now. Okay. Uh, there is m- right now, uh, right now especially, there's more literature, written books, and articles, and publications that talk about processes than ever before. There are actually blogs. There are webinars that I've listened in on from famous breweries around the country and how they do their thing. Um, there's a homebrew, um, podcast-
Mm-hmm ... that brings in, um, really acclaimed professional brewers that give advice that applies to professional and homebrew, uh, systems because the processes are basically the same. They're just different. They're different scales. Have you been on there? I have not personally been on there.
You're pretty good at talking inside baseball. Trying a little bit to pull you into the general audience sphere, you know. Mm-hmm. How did you get into this? You came out of Ohio State- Mm-hmm
... long, probably back when I did, majored in political science and philosophy. How'd you start brewing? I mean, I, I, I kinda came about it in a weird way. Uh, I didn't really drink a lot of alcohol when I was younger. Okay. And when I finally started drinking alcohol, it really was not beer. It was, um, wine and spirits and things like that. And-
Okay Um, I kind of was really turned off by the macro commercials and the s- the synthetic lifestyles that they promoted or, or claimed you would find if you drank their beer and all that really turned me off. The bar scene. You didn't like the bar scene. I didn't like the bar scene. I didn't like the commercial nature of, you know, Bud Light and, you know, saying it's a party to drink the beer, was it, that's not real. I didn't really like the-
And this is because, and this is why you were a philosophy major . Yeah. Um, and I, I also didn't like the flavor of a lot of those beers. Mm-hmm. And but as I got, um, further along into what I was drinking, um, my brother, um, really pointed me in the direction of imports and 10 years ago, 12 years ago, everyone talked about imported beer. They didn't really talk about craft beer-
Right ... from the States and craft beer did exist, but there were, the most adventurous beer typically, or the most acce- accessible beer because craft beer was so small at the time, was, um, imported stuff from Germany or Belgium. Right. And so he kept telling me, "Drink this English beer, drink this Belgian beer. It's really, um, strong or it's really flavorful or it's really unique." And, um, so I started doing a lot of that. Then I started progressing into Samuel Adams and Great Lakes and some of the larger craft breweries and really found that I do like beer, um, but I like the flavor and I like the thought behind it. Um, um, I've told a lot of people that I really credit... So I, I hated the commercial, um, selling that the macro breweries did, but I really, um, latched onto the commercials that Samuel Adams would put out because-
Yeah ... they talked about process and ingredients and quality. Well, and showcasing their, their actual brewers- Yeah, exactly
... and stuff like that- So- ... and it wasn't just chicks in bikinis. Exactly. So that was, it was like more real and so that kinda drew me in and from there I just became the prototypical beer geek that, um, stopped drinking the stuff I liked and, and only wanted to drink something new every day.
Okay. And I used to review beer online and I probably reviewed, you know, a new beer every day for two or three years straight. You were the kind of beer geek who would try a different beer every day just because you wanted to see sort of like what was out there and what was- Mm
... what was different. Yeah. How did you take the step to being a brewer? Sure.
Did you have a home kit or? Yeah, I did. So I began, uh, home brewing. Um, I kinda taught myself 'cause at the time I was working a second shift job and the home brew club met in the evening. Okay. And so I really couldn't access that, but I, that's one of those things I, um, at least looking back during those first formative years as a home brewer, I really would recommend to someone interested in getting into home brewing or that home brews and doesn't join a club is there are one or two local home brew clubs and they're a great resource of people that are super passionate, super knowledgeable-
Okay ... that can really help lead you in the right direction, give you advice, you know, let you know like some of like their failures and why it happened and how to avoid it yourself. Mm-hmm. But I did a ton of research to try to set myself up for success and I home brewed for a couple years and I was brewing far more beer than I could drink.
Okay. But as, um, I feel like almost every home brewer will say at some point like, "Oh, like I should make a job out of this," or, "This would be a really fun career," and when it's a hobby, of course it, it sounds really fun to just do that every day all day long. Right. Um, but you also hear a lot of professional brewers tell you it's not fun 100% of the time. It's very dirty. It's a lot of cleaning. It's whatever else, but that's its own thing, but yeah. So I thought I could, I, I really wanted to do it. I was super passionate about it and, um, I started just applying, um, and it took a couple years because I didn't have any formal brewing education. I didn't have any professional experience and, um, now on the other side of the table, I can tell you that at least once a month I get a job application through my email saying, "I'm a home brewer."
Mm-hmm. "Like do you need help?" And anymore, that's just not enough for the most part- Okay ... um, to wi- wind up at a brewery.
But you did translate your home brewing to- I did ... Columbus Brewing Company. Yeah. So, uh, I just, I got in good with, uh, one of their sales reps-
Okay ... uh, Tony Corder, and, uh, you know, I, I went to a lot of their events and, um, you know, a couple beer tastings with him just at, at people's houses and he, um- And your goal was to get a job. My goal was to get a job-
Okay ... not necessarily with them, but in the industry. And so he knew I was looking and, and that's really, um, to this day, um, all my brewers at Wolf's Ridge came up from, from below. So they were previously servers or bussers in our restaurant that- Oh, wow ... um, were super passionate and interested and they were able to demonstrate their hard work and knowledge to me and so I, I felt more comfortable teaching that person than trying to correct someone's bad habits or just blindly hire someone based on a resume.
Right. Um, as, but a larger brewery- And so a lot of the people that work for you were not brewers before at all- That is correct, yes
... but were passionate about it. Mm-hmm. May not have even done home brewing. I think what that translates into is what was important to you was work ethic- Ex- exactly
... and that you didn't mind training someone because you knew that they were gonna work hard. Yep. It sounds like there's a lot of ins and outs to it, but it doesn't sound like it can't be taught. Exactly, yes. And that's, um, you know, earlier we, we were talking off air about, um, whether there was brewing schools or not-
Mm-hmm ... and, and, you know, accre- accreditation in there or how that all worked out and there really isn't, but it, you know, it's more of like a trade and y- and an apprenticeship kind of situation and you can be taught, um, there. And then and also every brewer kind of wants things done their own way, so we're doing something, our things a little bit differently than Seven Son who's a little bit different than Columbus Brewing. Right. Um, but it's all the same thing in a roundabout way. Um, but yeah, you can, you can be taught. Um, so for me it's definitely I, I want someone who's hardworking. If you're hardworking, then you're gonna pay attention and you're gonna, you're gonna do, uh, what needs to be done. Um, you could be the smartest person in the world, but if you're not- ... you know, know a lot about beer, but if you're not gonna work hard, then I don't want you in my brewery.
Right. Talk about sort of, because there's no formal training, there's no licensing to this. There's no- No ... you don't have to go to the state and prove that you can brew beer. It's not- No
... like a- Mm-hmm ... even, you know, the person that cuts your hair is licensed. Um, what are the legal aspects, though, that you have to keep in mind? You, you need to be aware of sort of the ABV of everything, right? Or is that just all taken care of on the back end? Yeah, yeah. We, we need to track things from start to finish. Um, if you're not, um, recording data on the day you brew the beer until it's ready two weeks to 16 months later, depending on what you're doing-
Mm-hmm ... if you're not tracking it that entire time, then at the end you don't really know what you have with, on your hands. At least at our scale. And what's that data? Is that just what's going into it? Yeah, so everything from ingredient lists, um, I was talking with the owner today e- even about, like, lot numbers on, um, bags of malt because if-
Okay ... there were a product recall, um, conceivably if there was, uh, I don't know, pesticide, uh, contaminating the malt, we'd need to know where that came from and what lot and, and trace it all the way back. And so the government wants to know that kind of stuff. Right. Um, so-
Unless, of course, you w- just wanna empty out every tank. Yeah. Every tank and barrel. Or just get rid of everything.
Right. Yeah, so yeah, that would save, save, uh, your ass in a lot of ways. So yeah, you wanna know what you're putting into your beer and the quantities, and then you're, you're measuring, um, sugar content, which we refer to as gravity, and that's, that's how we determine alcohol. We determine, um, sugar content before fermentation and after fermentation. Oh, okay. So during, during fermentation, yeast turns that sugar into alcohol.
Okay. Um, and so we don't have the equipment that can measure alcohol directly. That does exist, but it's expensive. Mm-hmm. So the roundabout way that we do it, the same way a home brewer does it, you measure sugar content before and after, and the difference, there's a formula you can plug it into that tells you how much alcohol you have.
And you guys are... You have a fantastic kitchen for food, but you are first and foremost a brewery. And while the business model may get a significant portion of their income from the restaurant and, and the bar, you guys do distribute Wolf's Ridge Brewery. Yes, we do. And your location is special. It is a, a liquor license specifically that surrounds the fact that you are a brewery. Mm-hmm.
I'm just curious about it because there are a lot of what I've thought of as McBreweries that have popped up- Sure ... of, like, chains that have beer brewed on site. That business model is just interesting to me. 'Cause- Yeah
... especially those guys, you guys are distributing the, your beer, but those places don't really seem to be distributing- Mm-hmm ... the beer that they make outside of the restaurant. Yeah, for the most part, that's correct. Um, I think a few do package beer. Um, I don't know if I have ever seen it in Ohio, but I think in some states you can buy Gordon Biersch-
Okay ... beer, maybe BJ's beer. Um, but al- most, for the most part, you cannot. Um, and definitely in Ohio, I don't think you can. Like, you can find Hofbräuhaus beer, but I think it's brewed in Germany. Okay. Um, but you can find that in six-packs around town.
I didn't realize they were a McBrewery. Um, yeah- I'm kind of mad now ... they actually are. Uh, and I didn't really realize it until-
I know- ... probably until they came to Columbus, but there's one in Cincinnati. They just built one in Cleveland. There's one in Louisville. Right. There's probably, like, 10 other ones in the States.
Well, and it is... I am using a pejorative term. Sure. Like, I am sort of making fun of them for- Yeah
... sort of being a chain that brews beer. What is your opinion of it? Um, I, I kind of go both ways. So I think it's less authentic the more, uh, times you replicate that same thing. Okay. Um, it, you know, and, and authenticity is, uh, really important to me in, in my craft and what I'm doing.
Right. But if, um, on the other side of things, if they're producing a good product, then, you know, I, I personally try to be accepting, uh, within reason for these, uh, um, you know, chain, uh, brew pubs. Mm-hmm. So, um, I'm someone who will happily, if the situation, um, arises, enjoy a BJ's, um, Piranha Pale Ale. I used to actually drink a lot of that beer as I used to live up near Polaris-
Mm-hmm ... near there when it first opened. But, um, I will also tell you my heart sank when I realized that the Polaris location does not brew beer on site. Okay. They've got some giant tanks, uh, behind some glass, but I think they're full of root beer or they're just serving tanks. They don't actually brew it there. It, it gets brought in from their La- uh, Las Vegas brewery.
Hmm. But the one, um, I can't remember where they opened the second location, Easton, I think it i- they are brewing there maybe. Okay. So I kind of, uh, again, it's less authentic if you're calling yourself a brew pub or brew house or whatever name they choose to, to call it if it's not actually brewed there.
Right. Um, but if the, if the product is good, then I'll happily enjoy it. Um, but there's probably less room for creativity and freedom there. Mm-hmm. Um, it's not where I would send the craft beer nerd who wants something new and exciting.
Right. But on the other hand, um, you know, Gordon Biersch makes really high-quality German beer. Mm-hmm. I'm happy to drink it. Hofbräuhaus does the same thing, and I have a lot of fun when I go, but I don't go real often. So I k-
Right ... I'm kind of, I kind of go back and forth. Like, when the Ale Trail first came out, uh, a couple years ago, and since then, more and more people are arguing, um, back and forth about do we include every brewery or allot every brewery in the Columbus area- Mm-hmm ... um, be part of that? And so there's, like, 38 in this year's Ale Trail book, and next year there'll probably be 50. And some people who wanna complete every one don't wanna see breweries on there that in their eyes aren't a real brewery.
Right. But technically they are. They are- But- ... brewing br- beer there.
Right. But they don't wanna have to stop at Hofbräuhaus and Rham and, um, Gordon Biersch and BJ's and, and maybe three different BJ's- Right ... you know, just because there are three. Um, so that kind of gets a l- little annoying. Um, and I can see that side of the, the coin.
Right. Well, and I don't want you to sh- throw shade at all, but what then is the difference between you and somebody who's- In charge of brewing at some place like BJ's, is it simply that they're sort of taking orders, following a recipe, and that that's their job, nothing wrong with it? What is the difference? Yeah, uh, largely that is the case. In most of these breweries there is a small amount of freedom to brew your own recipes. Okay. Um, when the ex head brewer at Gordon Biersch, Keith Jackson, he now started his own brewery, it's called Combustion out in Pickerington.
Okay. His last year there, they were starting to give him considerable freedom because I think, to some extent, they found out their business model is kind of outdated now, being centered around German beers. There's, there, there's a lot of competition with German beer in Columbus now for them. Mm-hmm. So he was given a lot of freedom to brew his own beers. Um, there's a little bit of that at Ram. But, but yeah, for the most part, they're, they're brewing core beers, core brands, and they're, they're, they're adhering to a recipe, adhering to whatever arbitrary rules, uh, may be set up for that corporation because they want it to be exactly the same, um, all over the country.
Well, they want it, they want it to be r- replicatable, basically. Exactly. Right. Um, so but sometimes they're... I, I find, um, some of it arbitrary. So Gordon Biersch famously, um, wanted to be hyper German.
Mm-hmm. And so according to the Reinheitsgebot, which gets tossed around a lot, that's that German beer purity law- Okay ... um, that, you know, says beer can only be brewed with water, malt, and hops, and then later they added yeast, um-
Okay ... when they originally created it, um, they didn't know yeast existed hundreds of years ago. But, um, so in order to be Reinheitsgebot proper, um, Gordon Biersch was not allowing their employees to dry hop beers. So the head brewer would brew an IPA, but he couldn't dry hop it, which is an integral part in creating a good aromatic IPA. Hmm. Because that, and that's the process of adding hops to fermented beer on the cold side.
Right. Um, they were not allowed to pump pure oxygen into their beer, um, after they, uh, brewed it, and that's an integral part to creating healthy yeast. Huh. Um, every brewery in the country does that, but they were pumping in, um, purified compressed air, and there's oxygen in that air, but it's not as ideal as pure oxygen.
Right. And slowly some of those rules started coming away, but that was one of the things he had to deal with, um, because of the corporate nature. Even though he knew better, he knew it would, would have produced better beer if you could, um, change some of those rules. But it's what he was hired to do, and he's not the boss. Exactly. So yeah.
And so just like any job, right? Yeah. So yeah, the difference there is, um, at Wolf's Ridge, um, I've kind of been given complete freedom to do as I see fit to direct the program to produce the best possible beer- Mm-hmm ... to give it an identity. And-
Well, and you're still expected to brew the beers that were sort of around and popular before, right? Um, yes and no. You, you inherited some recipes. I did inherit some recipes. Um, honestly, um, not a single recipe I brew today is the same as it was when I got hired.
Okay. Um, a lot of the beers that were around are gone or have changed names because the recipe changed so drastically. Mm-hmm. Um, other ones, like Clear Sky, our American cream ale, is one of our flagship beers, and it's t- spawned infused versions like Daybreak, the coffee version-
Mm-hmm ... as our best-selling beer. Which is delicious. Um, and that's just Clear Sky with vanilla and coffee added to it. But Clear Sky today is not remotely resembling what it was three years ago when I first got hired. And so that's one of the things that, um, I can't thank the owners, um, especially Alan Suter, the, um, head of the brewery at Wolf's Ridge-
Mm-hmm ... um, enough credit, um, for my personal development there and allowing me to change the beer program. As, as long as what I'm doing is working and it makes sense and whatever, like, he, he gives me free control. So, um, we're continuing to brew Clear Sky, but I, I did what I felt was right for that recipe. Right. And so a cream ale traditionally has a high percentage of corn in it, and originally it had zero corn. And so now it has 40% corn. There's a lot of corn in that beer now-
Okay ... because that's what a cream ale should be. And so for me, I'm very traditional in how these classic styles are brewed, and a lot of times I'm buying very expensive imported grain from Germany or Belgium or England because it's the best quality grain or because it's what's traditional for a certain style. And so that's another thing where in a corporate environment you probably have a contract with a malt supplier- Right ... for a very cheap price, but then it may also not be the best quality malt.
Right. And you don't have a lot of freedom in, you know, you know, developing your recipes because you're all using the same grain in every recipe. Right. So it's harder to change that flavor profile. So, um-
It's n- it must be nice to have both the leeway in the process and the price, certainly. Exactly. Yeah. So and I think, um, ultimately that's one of the reasons why the consumer has, um, really latched onto us because whether they realize it or not, it's creating this really unique identity that we have that a lot of breweries don't have, is I'm putting so much thought into some of these ingredients, um, regardless of price. And, and that is something we're always conscious of, of course. Mm-hmm. And, you know, we're, we are making money and trying to make sure-
Yeah, 'cause it does translate to the end consumer. For sure. Right. But, um, you know, everything I do is, is thoughtful and with a purpose and, um, authentic, and it has my style attached to it.
Mm-hmm. Um, I've talked to, um, other customers or brewers that will, like, read a label, and he'll be like, "You definitely didn't write that label, but I think you wrote this one." And I'm like, "How would you know that?" And he's like, "It just sounds like you would have said that." You know, and it has, like, my, my flair to it, but and then that translates across, like, everything that we do. And so- Right ... that's something that a corporate McBrewery, so to speak, uh-
They just can't do ... definitely does not have. They cannot do that- Right ... uh, by nature.
Talk about the other people in Columbus that are doing good work. Okay. So, um, I mean, I came from Columbus Brewing Company, and they still are arguably the best or one of the best breweries in the city. Um, they, um, I'm, I'm really excited to see their, uh, portfolio of brands expand over the last year or two- Mm-hmm ... because the entire time I was there, and one of the reasons I was unhappy there was because I brewed IPAs six days a week-
Right ... for like two years straight. Um, and that's their best-selling beer for good reason, but it just, um- You know, became more like a factory than a creative brewing job, and that's, you know, why I got into the industry. I loved the creative nature of brewing beer- Mm-hmm ... as a home brewer. At the time, you know, it was a lot of IPA, maybe a seasonal that was a flash in the pan, and Bodhi once a month. Um, and now, you know, you can find Bodhi regularly in bottles that people wanted for so long, and so, you know, they're bottling Creeper and they're- they've got a Scottish ale and a lager and a, and a pale ale or two, and all these other brands. Um, and so that's really exciting for me to watch, um, them finally get to do things that they used to talk about doing all the time, and they're all very, very good beers. Um, Seven Sun, um, is definitely again at the foreground. Um, they're doing, um, a lot of stuff with a similar mindset to what we're doing-
Mm-hmm ... but they have their own style, and I think you can see and taste it in their beer and their branding. Um, it has, um, uh, Colin Vent's, um, uh, passion and, and different styling behind some of those recipes. Mm-hmm. Um, they do a lot of really quirky beers, but they do a lot of like, uh, really hop-heavy beers, IPAs and double IPAs that are very, very good. And they're one of the other breweries in town that's starting to dabble in the, um, quote-unquote, "sour world."
Mm-hmm. And so far they've been doing mostly, um, Brett beers, which are the ones that don't have acidity but they are funky, um, in flavor and aroma, and they've been very good. Um, and they've done a kettle sour, which is, um, a different process of, um, quickly souring a beer, um, versus fermenting it in the tank. You're kind of doing it before you boil it, um, and we don't necessarily have to get into like the technical nature of it, but not to say it's not a real sour, but it's not at all what a Terre de Sauvage is or what- Mm-hmm ... we're doing at Wolf's Ridge is. It's a completely different process.
Okay. But they are building a facility for some of these more traditional barrel-aged sours. So, um, definitely Columbus and Seven Sun. Um, every time I go to Lineage, um, there's a, a couple beers that really impress me, uh, that I really dig, and they're doing a lot more very drinkable beers. Mm-hmm. And I do a lot of that myself. A la- um, a large part of our portfolio is smaller ABV beers.
Yeah. You know, we do bottle releases where people line up for flavored cream ale that's a 5% beer, and most breweries around the country can't get away with that. It needs to be a double IPA or an imperial stout or a barrel-aged something. Right. Um, so that's really cool. And so I really dig a more drinkable, lower alcohol beer, and they do a lot of stuff like that that, um, I really get into. Um, they're another brewery that's doing, uh, kettle sours. Um, so, um, if you want acidity, um, uh, those beers definitely have that. A couple of different Berliner Weisses, which is a wheat sour that came from Germany, and usually they add fruit to theirs, um, which is, uh, unique and, uh, they're always adding different blends of fruit, which is pretty cool.
It feels as though there's a lot of breweries popping up in Columbus. Is Columbus unique in that, or is this a nationwide trend? It definitely is a nationwide trend. When I first started brewing professionally, there were- Tell, tell me Columbus is great at it, though. Oh, I think so, and I think we're doing a better job than a lot of cities are.
Okay. Um, um, we've got a lot of, uh, room to grow in not only numbers, but also in just, I don't know, community education and, um, I don't know, I don't know the right way to describe it, but I just feel like our beer scene isn't as mature- Okay ... as one that would be from like Portland, Maine or Oregon. They're both huge beer scenes, um, with great mature beer scene, um, scenes there. Denver, um, San Diego, you know, the, the, and a few other places. So, uh, Chicago maybe. So the, um, there's some of these beer scenes that are super, uh, mature. Um, breweries have been there for a long time producing, um, boundary-pushing beer for a long time, and the consumer is well aware of that, and, um, I think across the board they're buying up all the different styles.
Mm-hmm. And right now, Columbus is a very young beer scene. And so, um, we've got a lot of quantity and we're adding more, uh, it seems like every week or more. Yeah. We're adding a new brewery or two, um, and that's really cool. But, um, most of these breweries are less than five years old, and honestly, out of 38 on the Ale Trail book, I'd say or guess that at least 50% are less than two years old.
Okay. So, um, you know, there's just a difference there in, um, in the caliber- Mm-hmm ... and experience of the brewers at a lot of these places, and also the consumer because 10 years ago-
They're not as educated ... there were two breweries, you know? Right. Are there things that Columbus can do better, or is it simply that we just haven't matured enough? I think it's, I think it's that, because there's not a lot you can do to change the mindset of the consumer. Right now, a lot of the consumers in Columbus really are gravitating towards really hoppy IPAs.
Yeah. And that is the, the fastest-selling style across the country and has been. It's the fastest-growing style still for like 10 years straight or something. Mm-hmm. But while I love a good IPA, there's a lack of subtlety and nuance and skill to some extent that goes into making a really hoppy beer-
Okay ... versus like a really clean lager or a well-done, you know, one-month or, or one-year-old, um, barrel-aged stout or a two-year-old barrel-aged sour. A lot of the professional, um, lore and books will talk about how you can hide up anyth- you can hide any flaws with enough hops. You can't do that with a lager, and that's where they used to like praise like Budweiser because of the consistency of that super clean, neutral-tasting product, and it's hard- Right ... to do that. Um, and so there's a lot of breweries that are focusing on that, and it's a trendy thing and whatever else, but I feel like as the beer market matures, you're gonna see more and more people wanting session beers with, that are lower in alcohol.
Right. And, you know, they're gonna gravitate back towards those German lagers. You know, there's a lot of German-themed chain breweries for a reason, because those beers are really drinkable. Right. Um, and they agree with a lot of people. So, um, I th- you know, that, that's almost the metamorphosis of the craft drinker as a whole. I th- like, and kind of how I- tracked my progress as a brewer or beer drinker.
Mm-hmm. Um, I got into big sweet stouts and IPAs, and then I got into barrel-aged stouts, and then I got into, um, sours. And then after all of that, like, my palate just felt tired of always drinking high alcohol or super strongly flavored- Right ... beers or whatever else. And then all of a sudden, all I wanted to drink was German lager.
Right. And I tell people all the time my favorite style is Helles lager. And my favorite beer to drink at Wolf's Ridge is a 5% German Helles lager. It's like a beer that is like the way beer, um, tastes or the way you imagine beer. If someone just says beer and you think of one thing, usually it's this golden, um, really drinkable beer. Right. And that's kind of what Helles lager is. Um, but there's still a lot of flavor in how we're doing it versus, you know, some other breweries. So I think that, you know, that's just a maturing of my palate and my tastes.
Right. And some people may never come down from wanting barrel-aged and high ABV beers, but I think a lot of people, um- It's where the market will go. Yeah, I think that's where the market will go over time.
Yeah. Cool. Chris, thank you so much for your time. You're welcome. Thank you for listening to the Confluence Cast presented by Columbus Underground. Again, you can get more information on what we discussed today in the show notes for this episode at theconfluencecast.com. Please rate, subscribe, share this episode of the Confluence Cast with your friends, family, contacts, enemies, your favorite brewer. If you're interested in sponsoring the Confluence Cast, get in touch with us. We can be reached by email at info@theconfluencecast.com. Our theme music was composed by Benji Robinson. I'm your host, Tim Fulton. Have a great week.
Transcript8,957 words
Tim Fulton Ladies and gentlemen, welcome to the Confluence Cast presented by Columbus Underground. We are a weekly Columbus-centric podcast focusing on the civics, lifestyle, entertainment, and people of our city. I'm your host, Tim Fulton. This week, I sat down with Chris Davison. He is the head brewer at Wolf's Ridge Brewing. We went deep into sour beers, the brewing process, the brewing community here in Columbus, what other breweries in town you should be checking out, why Columbus is a young beer scene, and why that's a good thing. You can get more information on what we discussed today in the show notes for this episode at theconfluencecast.com. Also, the Confluence Cast is on Patreon. Find out how to support this podcast on our website, theconfluencecast.com, or at patreon.com/confluence. The Confluence Cast is sponsored this week by Little Rock Bar. Little Rock Bar is located at 944 North Fourth Street in Italian Village. With 30 beers on tap, Little Rock Bar has happy hour from 4:00 to 8:00 PM every day. Every Tuesday, get $3 draft beers all night while you enjoy Rock Your Cock Off Karaoke. Wednesdays is Everybody's a Comedian hosted by Travis Haywisher. It's like trivia, but you prove your snark instead of smarts. Info, hours, and upcoming events at littlerockbar.net. Everyone's night should have a little rock. Enjoy the interview. Sitting down here with Chris Davison, the head brewer at Wolf's Ridge Brewing. Chris, how are you, sir?
Chris Davison I'm doing great today.
Tim Fulton Good. We are sitting here at the Idea Foundry sampling the recent sour beer that you guys released, Terre de Sauvage. It is delicious, first of all. You guys are releasing another sour beer. What's that one called?
Chris Davison Red Legacy. It's a Flanders red ale. Um, and, uh, compared to Terre de Sauvage, uh, which was a three-month beer that was fermented in the barrel with a mixed culture of different yeasts and bacteria, and it was kind of designed as a production, uh, sour for us. So I wanted to be able to produce a decent quantity of sour beer regularly and have it in our tap room or on store shelves rather than a flash in the pan once a year for the next five years-
Tim Fulton Okay
Chris Davison ... which is the way we could have gone, um, had we gone longer term. So Red Legacy is the opposite of that, and that was the, uh, I guess the second sour beer that I ever brewed at Wolf's Ridge, and it was in the barrel for 16 months.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Chris Davison And the entire-
Tim Fulton And we should... And just to cut you off here
Chris Davison Sure
Tim Fulton ... we should say that Wolf's Ridge Brewing is a, is a restaurant and tap room located just north of downtown on North Fourth Street. You said production beer. What's... A- And I understand that to mean basically you just wanna be able to produce a lot of it-
Chris Davison Mm
Tim Fulton ... or you wanna be able to keep producing it. What's the difference between a production beer and, what would you call it, a one-off?
Chris Davison Yeah, kind of. Um, so we did re-brew Red Legacy into the same barrels. The same yeast culture survived in, in those barrels, and, um, is already fermenting away on a new batch. But because of the time commitment, 16 months, um, it's not really going to ever be a beer that is always available.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Chris Davison Uh, we did-
Tim Fulton So Red Legacy is special.
Chris Davison It is very special, yeah. Especially because of that time commitment for us right now, um, you know, that's the longest aged beer we've ever released on a larger scale.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Chris Davison But it was still only 500 bottles. Uh, and the same, uh... There, there were more barrels I guess, but the, the single run of Terre de Sauvage that we did in May, uh, yielded 1,500 barrels plus about 25 kegs. And, um, for Red Legacy we're gonna... We got 500 bottles and about 20 kegs, and that's all gonna be gone by, um, hopefully July 1st. If not, uh, the kegs may last a couple weeks, um, and make their way around town a little bit. And I'll save a little bit back at the brewery for special occasions, but that beer is gonna be gone in a day. Uh, Terre de Sauvage will be around, uh, for a while. So yeah, that's, that's the main difference is that it, it'll be around, um, all the time or most of the time in quantity.
Tim Fulton And so how do you g- So why sour beer? It seems like a trend right now. What... I- Is it just interesting to you that you get to do something new? You've been brewing at Wolf's Ridge for round about three years.
Chris Davison Yeah.
Tim Fulton You were at Columbus Brewing before that.
Chris Davison Yep.
Tim Fulton Why sour beer?
Chris Davison I've, uh, I honestly always wanted to brew sour beer, and that was one of the first things I started asking the owners at Wolf's Ridge when I got hired on was I wanted to do two things that they had never done before, well, arguably three. I wanted to brew lagers.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Chris Davison Which, um, the second beer that I personally designed as a recipe at Wolf's Ridge was a smoked lager, which was scary for a lot of reasons because smoked beer is not always the fastest seller, but-
Tim Fulton Okay
Chris Davison ... um, it's turned into our most award-winning beer. Um, it's called Buchenrauch. Uh, but then the other two things I wanted to do was barrel aging and sour beer, and, and really that goes hand in hand, at least for me, is that you age, uh, and maybe even ferment sour beer in a barrel. Uh, so within a year or less, uh, we started putting Dire Wolf, our imperial stout, into bourbon barrels and rum barrels. But, uh, it took a little bit longer to start doing sours, and the main reason for that was, um, there's a lot of expense and, as we talked about earlier, a longer time commitment sometimes for-
Tim Fulton Okay
Chris Davison ... the sour beer. But there's also a risk of cross-contamination. And I think it's somewhat over-
Tim Fulton Cross-contamination because... I mean, they're in barrels. What are they cross, cross-contaminating?
Chris Davison Um, so because of the different, uh, yeasts and bacterias that are in there. And so even though, um, the beer is contained within a barrel And you may not see it leaking out of the barrel.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Chris Davison Uh, it may hold pressure. Um, if you pull the bung off, some of the barrels, um, some pressure may actually escape and it, you know, you'll hear a rush of air come out. Um-
Tim Fulton And you called it the bung?
Chris Davison Yeah.
Tim Fulton Okay
Chris Davison It is, it is a bung.
Tim Fulton And so it is a bunghole.
Chris Davison It is a bunghole.
Tim Fulton Got it.
Chris Davison Yep. So despite all of that, um, it's still a wood vessel and wood is porous.
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm.
Chris Davison And so, uh, for example, when, uh, we were getting ready to package Red Legacy, we had to get it out of the barrels, and when we looked inside, after 16 months in our warm basement, uh, about a third of that barrel had evaporated. Um-
Tim Fulton Oh, wow
Chris Davison ... despite being closed up the entire time, the wood is porous enough that, um, a lot of the water content evaporated out.
Tim Fulton But that's not cross-contamination.
Chris Davison No, that's not cross-contamination, but that's evidence that the, the wood is porous. And so, um, if air's getting in or out, so potentially can, um, microscopic, um, yeast or bacteria.
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm.
Chris Davison And especially once you start moving that stuff around, if that barrel touches another barrel that's holding clean beer, like Dire Wolf, um, there may be yeast alive on the outside of that wood that migrates-
Tim Fulton That's a lager, right?
Chris Davison ... to the other wood. Uh, that's the imperial stout.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Chris Davison Yeah. Um, uh, there are stories of some breweries that store two barrels side by side and, uh, um, one of them w- is Jester King down in Austin, Texas, and they recently re- re- released a beer. Um, I forget the name of it, but it was basically, um, it was all brewed to be one beer I think, but, um, some of it went into some sherry barrels and there's, I guess, a unique set of yeast that ferment sherry-
Tim Fulton Okay
Chris Davison ... wine. And even though the wine had been emptied and had been refilled with beer, that yeast was alive in that barrel, and it, that barrel had a unique flavor because of it, and then the barrels next to it tasted the same even though they were not sherry barrels, and that yeast somehow through touching, through the air, whatever-
Tim Fulton Right
Chris Davison ... migrated into the other barrels and so they thought that was a really cool special thing. Um, there's another example-
Tim Fulton So the beer is essentially a happy accident.
Chris Davison Yeah, exactly.
Tim Fulton It's not what they planned for.
Chris Davison Um, but it was also, you know, a form of cross-contamination. And then even beyond that is if you start using the same, uh, tanks-
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm
Chris Davison ... hoses, gaskets, et cetera, um, for, for sour beer and clean beer, um, the yeast and bacteria that we want in the sour beer to create that profile we don't want in, in our normal beer.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Chris Davison And if it makes its way into that normal beer and ferments it, it could cause over-carbonation, uh, maybe bottle bombs, um, where a bottle would explode because it continues to ferment and-
Tim Fulton Right
Chris Davison ... creates too much pressure. It could cause off flavors or haze issues. Um, and sometimes there are happy accident stories out there where brewers accidentally create sour beer that tastes good, but more often than not, it probably tastes really bad.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Chris Davison Um, and-
Tim Fulton So let's-
Chris Davison Yeah
Tim Fulton ... now, now that we've gone deep, deep down the path-
Chris Davison Deep, deep down the rabbit hole
Tim Fulton ... of, of cross-contamination and the bad things that can happen to brewing beer in the process, what makes sour beer different? Is it you're doing a negative thing to beer, but in a controlled way in order to make it taste good? I feel like that's what you just inferred.
Chris Davison Well, uh, i- in my case I'm doing a, I, I would say it's a positive thing because it's intended and I really like the outcome. Um, but I am a brewer that hates hearing the stories of the happy accident that-
Tim Fulton Right
Chris Davison ... um, that yields a beer that's so good somehow, um, accidentally soured stout that we're gonna bottle it and sell it to you at a premium.
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm.
Chris Davison And it may be delicious, but I just kind of hate that story because to me it tells me that you did something careless-
Tim Fulton Right
Chris Davison ... and you're trying to salvage that. And I think there's a lot of cases where brewers say that that happened and it's this great beer, but it actually is really bad. But the-
Tim Fulton So what is different from sour beer from, like, regular beer?
Chris Davison Um, so but, but yeah. So the difference between sour beer and a regular beer kind of depends on your definition of sour.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Chris Davison Um, when you're using the term sour, then it, it probably just means there's some sort of aci- acidic content to the beer.
Tim Fulton Oh, right.
Chris Davison But sometimes people say sour and they're referring to a beer fermented with Brettanomyces, which is a form of yeast that does not create acidity, but it does create the typical sour funky profile that's in a lot of sour beers.
Tim Fulton And so what are we drinking right now?
Chris Davison So, um, Terre de Sauvage is a mi- a mixed culture, meaning there's Brettanomyces, which is creating, um, a funky aroma and flavor, but also there's Lactobacillus, which is creating, um, acid.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Chris Davison And it, and there's not a lot of flavor or aroma coming off of the lacto, and that mixture is what, um, creates the profile in this beer. You can do a bre- beer that's just, like, a very clean yeast, like a Kolsch yeast plus Lactobacillus, and that's kind of what a Berliner Weisse is.
Tim Fulton Oh, okay.
Chris Davison Where it's a very clean acidity. It's not funky smelling. Um, you can do a, a beer like, um, the Belgian Orval or Boulevard, um, Saison Brett, which you can find on shelves around town-
Tim Fulton Okay
Chris Davison ... that are not sour, but they have a very funky, grassy, barnyardy aroma. Um, that is really good. And technically some people will say those are all sours, but they're all drastically different.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Chris Davison So it kind of depends on your definition.
Tim Fulton So what's different about this, just to translate it-
Chris Davison Mm-hmm
Tim Fulton ... a little bit, is simply you're adding another culture to it?
Chris Davison Yeah.
Tim Fulton Got it.
Chris Davison Um, and-
Tim Fulton But it's n- but it's not a, "Oh, I have to heat it up and cool it down a whole lot," or it, it's not something where it's what I would think of as, like, a controlled burn-
Chris Davison Mm-hmm
Tim Fulton ... if you know what I mean. Like, if you wanna age some brick, basically what you're doing is- Fucking it up, you're not fucking up the beer in a controlled way. It is truly just a different ingredient that's causing it to taste that way.
Chris Davison Yeah, yeah. In this case, it's fully in- in- intentional. It is... These yeast and bacteria strains are famously a little bit more, um, temperamental or difficult to work with.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Chris Davison So they're less predictable over time as compared to our, our standard ale yeast that we ferment Clear Sky, and Driftwood, and Howling Moon with. That yeast is super predictable. It, it behaves the same. Um, it's very forgiving. The cultures in our barrels, uh, for Terre de Sauvage, for instance, um, are not very predictable. And so far-
Tim Fulton So then how do you... As a brewer, you're putting everything together. Talk about, for those that don't know, what is the preparation process before you're putting it into the barrel?
Chris Davison It-
Tim Fulton What goes into it?
Chris Davison So first we gotta, we gotta get a barrel. And right now we're working mostly, mostly with, um, spent barrels, um, that previously held, what I'll say a clean beer, a non-sour beer.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Chris Davison So probably Dire Wolf. Our imperial stout is, is usually what's in the barrel beforehand. And f- and it's just very economical for us to reuse that barrel. But in an ideal world, all of our sour barrels would be ex-wine barrels. They're just a little bit more conducive to that environment and the flavor profile that we want.
Tim Fulton And where do you guys get those?
Chris Davison So most of our bourbon barrels are, really all of our bourbon barrels are Watershed.
Tim Fulton Oh, okay.
Chris Davison But we do have some Caribbean rum barrels, a port barrel, a sherry barrel, and a, uh... We just added a Marsala wine barrel from, uh, Italy to our sour fleet. But, um, so we're starting with that spent barrel, and if it has never had sour beer in it before, then there's two ways we can acidify it. Um, and typically I'll brew a recipe that's specifically designed to be soured since, um, in our case, we're fermenting sour beer in the barrel. I don't wanna ferment our sour beer in a stainless tank-
Tim Fulton Okay
Chris Davison ... 'cause we have to use those for our clean beer, and I don't want to risk that cross-contamination we mentioned. So, um-
Tim Fulton And s- and part of that is the, is a function of the size of your space and the number of-
Chris Davison Very much so.
Tim Fulton Got it.
Chris Davison Yeah. So we're fermenting, we're treating the barrels like they're a tank, and we'll brew a recipe to, um, hopefully create the flavor profiles and attributes that we want, um, with our grain. Um, low hopping rates help produce, um, or facilitate, um, higher acid levels.
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm.
Chris Davison So, um, our next Terre de Sauvage is, um, colored green, and the gold is very acidic. It is a different grain bill.
Tim Fulton The beer isn't green, though?
Chris Davison No. No.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Chris Davison It... No, yeah, that's just the color. So yeah, the... We're drinking Terre de Sauvage Gold.
Tim Fulton Right.
Chris Davison Um, very acidic version. Terre de Sauvage Green is the next one, and that one's dry hopped.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Chris Davison And it, um, it's, it's a lot, um, heavier on the hopping side. Um, the IBUs, the bitterness levels are a lot higher, so, um, the lactobacillus couldn't... It really can't tolerate high IBUs.
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm.
Chris Davison So it's not very acidic compared to this.
Tim Fulton So when you, when you put the ingredients into the barrel-
Chris Davison Mm-hmm
Tim Fulton ... you basically do that, seal it up, and then do you have to turn it? You just wait 16 months?
Chris Davison Um, so, uh, so then we wanna introduce the desired cultures, desired yeast strains.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Chris Davison And so we may, um, harvest them from a previous barrel or a culture we have on-hand for some reason. We may buy a new set of, uh, yeasts and bacteria, um, through our yeast supplier-
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm
Chris Davison ... um, which is White Labs, the same that most homebrewers use-
Tim Fulton Okay
Chris Davison ... um, find at the homebrew shop. Um, but we, I... So depending on the beer I'm creating, I'll select certain strains of brett, or lactobacillus, or what have you, and we can add those to the barrel. Or you can actually add a small amount of, um, of fermenting beer from another barrel, and the, the live yeast in that beer will inoculate, um, the fresh wart, the fresh beer that you add to that barrel-
Tim Fulton Okay
Chris Davison ... and then it'll start fermenting. But either way, it'll start going, and then a few days later, um, uh, usually one to, to three days, you'll start seeing, um, foam coming out of the top of the tank, and you know it's fermenting. It's creating carbon dioxide gas and foam.
Tim Fulton And so then it's time to seal it up?
Chris Davison Uh, so it's kind of always sealed, but we have, uh, mungs that are specially designed f- to allow fermentation. So they have a, um, center stopper that, um, when there's enough pressure, it pops up.
Tim Fulton And then it goes right back down.
Chris Davison Kinda like a tur- turkey thermometer or whatever.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Chris Davison And it has holes in it, and it allows that gas and foam out so the barrel doesn't blow up.
Tim Fulton Gotcha.
Chris Davison And then when it's done, that, um, that little stopper will sink back in and seal it up, or-
Tim Fulton So how do you test it, especially with a beer that you're gonna be fermenting for 16 months? How do you... You just sort of like, "Okay, I'm doing some research." Like, you don't get to sample it-
Chris Davison No
Tim Fulton ... as it goes.
Chris Davison I mean, uh, we can sample from the barrel, um, throughout the process. But before creating that recipe, I have no guideline beyond my own research-
Tim Fulton Okay
Chris Davison ... and what I've had from other brewers. So I, I definitely do a lot of research before brewing into these barrels, but it's, it's a big risk. There's a, there's a large risk factor there, especially the longer that time commitment.
Tim Fulton Now, how much sharing happens in that community? Is it so you're looking at what other people have done-
Chris Davison Mm-hmm
Tim Fulton ... but are they, you know, putting out a blog entry about how, "Here's how I did X, Y, Z thing"? 'Cause that seems pretty proprietary, right?
Chris Davison Uh, for the most part, that's one of the great things about craft beer is that, um, there is a lot of sharing going on right now.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Chris Davison Uh, there is m- right now, uh, right now especially, there's more literature, written books, and articles, and publications that talk about processes than ever before. There are actually blogs. There are webinars that I've listened in on from famous breweries around the country and how they do their thing. Um, there's a homebrew, um, podcast-
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm
Chris Davison ... that brings in, um, really acclaimed professional brewers that give advice that applies to professional and homebrew, uh, systems because the processes are basically the same. They're just different. They're different scales.
Tim Fulton Have you been on there?
Chris Davison I have not personally been on there.
Tim Fulton You're pretty good at talking inside baseball. Trying a little bit to pull you into the general audience sphere, you know.
Chris Davison Mm-hmm.
Tim Fulton How did you get into this? You came out of Ohio State-
Chris Davison Mm-hmm
Tim Fulton ... long, probably back when I did, majored in political science and philosophy. How'd you start brewing?
Chris Davison I mean, I, I, I kinda came about it in a weird way. Uh, I didn't really drink a lot of alcohol when I was younger.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Chris Davison And when I finally started drinking alcohol, it really was not beer. It was, um, wine and spirits and things like that. And-
Tim Fulton Okay
Chris Davison Um, I kind of was really turned off by the macro commercials and the s- the synthetic lifestyles that they promoted or, or claimed you would find if you drank their beer and all that really turned me off.
Tim Fulton The bar scene. You didn't like the bar scene.
Chris Davison I didn't like the bar scene. I didn't like the commercial nature of, you know, Bud Light and, you know, saying it's a party to drink the beer, was it, that's not real. I didn't really like the-
Tim Fulton And this is because, and this is why you were a philosophy major .
Chris Davison Yeah. Um, and I, I also didn't like the flavor of a lot of those beers.
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm.
Chris Davison And but as I got, um, further along into what I was drinking, um, my brother, um, really pointed me in the direction of imports and 10 years ago, 12 years ago, everyone talked about imported beer. They didn't really talk about craft beer-
Tim Fulton Right
Chris Davison ... from the States and craft beer did exist, but there were, the most adventurous beer typically, or the most acce- accessible beer because craft beer was so small at the time, was, um, imported stuff from Germany or Belgium.
Tim Fulton Right.
Chris Davison And so he kept telling me, "Drink this English beer, drink this Belgian beer. It's really, um, strong or it's really flavorful or it's really unique." And, um, so I started doing a lot of that. Then I started progressing into Samuel Adams and Great Lakes and some of the larger craft breweries and really found that I do like beer, um, but I like the flavor and I like the thought behind it. Um, um, I've told a lot of people that I really credit... So I, I hated the commercial, um, selling that the macro breweries did, but I really, um, latched onto the commercials that Samuel Adams would put out because-
Tim Fulton Yeah
Chris Davison ... they talked about process and ingredients and quality.
Tim Fulton Well, and showcasing their, their actual brewers-
Chris Davison Yeah, exactly
Tim Fulton ... and stuff like that-
Chris Davison So-
Tim Fulton ... and it wasn't just chicks in bikinis.
Chris Davison Exactly. So that was, it was like more real and so that kinda drew me in and from there I just became the prototypical beer geek that, um, stopped drinking the stuff I liked and, and only wanted to drink something new every day.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Chris Davison And I used to review beer online and I probably reviewed, you know, a new beer every day for two or three years straight.
Tim Fulton You were the kind of beer geek who would try a different beer every day just because you wanted to see sort of like what was out there and what was-
Chris Davison Mm
Tim Fulton ... what was different.
Chris Davison Yeah.
Tim Fulton How did you take the step to being a brewer?
Chris Davison Sure.
Tim Fulton Did you have a home kit or?
Chris Davison Yeah, I did. So I began, uh, home brewing. Um, I kinda taught myself 'cause at the time I was working a second shift job and the home brew club met in the evening.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Chris Davison And so I really couldn't access that, but I, that's one of those things I, um, at least looking back during those first formative years as a home brewer, I really would recommend to someone interested in getting into home brewing or that home brews and doesn't join a club is there are one or two local home brew clubs and they're a great resource of people that are super passionate, super knowledgeable-
Tim Fulton Okay
Chris Davison ... that can really help lead you in the right direction, give you advice, you know, let you know like some of like their failures and why it happened and how to avoid it yourself.
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm.
Chris Davison But I did a ton of research to try to set myself up for success and I home brewed for a couple years and I was brewing far more beer than I could drink.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Chris Davison But as, um, I feel like almost every home brewer will say at some point like, "Oh, like I should make a job out of this," or, "This would be a really fun career," and when it's a hobby, of course it, it sounds really fun to just do that every day all day long.
Tim Fulton Right.
Chris Davison Um, but you also hear a lot of professional brewers tell you it's not fun 100% of the time. It's very dirty. It's a lot of cleaning. It's whatever else, but that's its own thing, but yeah. So I thought I could, I, I really wanted to do it. I was super passionate about it and, um, I started just applying, um, and it took a couple years because I didn't have any formal brewing education. I didn't have any professional experience and, um, now on the other side of the table, I can tell you that at least once a month I get a job application through my email saying, "I'm a home brewer."
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm.
Chris Davison "Like do you need help?" And anymore, that's just not enough for the most part-
Tim Fulton Okay
Chris Davison ... um, to wi- wind up at a brewery.
Tim Fulton But you did translate your home brewing to-
Chris Davison I did
Tim Fulton ... Columbus Brewing Company.
Chris Davison Yeah. So, uh, I just, I got in good with, uh, one of their sales reps-
Tim Fulton Okay
Chris Davison ... uh, Tony Corder, and, uh, you know, I, I went to a lot of their events and, um, you know, a couple beer tastings with him just at, at people's houses and he, um-
Tim Fulton And your goal was to get a job.
Chris Davison My goal was to get a job-
Tim Fulton Okay
Chris Davison ... not necessarily with them, but in the industry. And so he knew I was looking and, and that's really, um, to this day, um, all my brewers at Wolf's Ridge came up from, from below. So they were previously servers or bussers in our restaurant that-
Tim Fulton Oh, wow
Chris Davison ... um, were super passionate and interested and they were able to demonstrate their hard work and knowledge to me and so I, I felt more comfortable teaching that person than trying to correct someone's bad habits or just blindly hire someone based on a resume.
Tim Fulton Right.
Chris Davison Um, as, but a larger brewery-
Tim Fulton And so a lot of the people that work for you were not brewers before at all-
Chris Davison That is correct, yes
Tim Fulton ... but were passionate about it.
Chris Davison Mm-hmm.
Tim Fulton May not have even done home brewing. I think what that translates into is what was important to you was work ethic-
Chris Davison Ex- exactly
Tim Fulton ... and that you didn't mind training someone because you knew that they were gonna work hard.
Chris Davison Yep.
Tim Fulton It sounds like there's a lot of ins and outs to it, but it doesn't sound like it can't be taught.
Chris Davison Exactly, yes. And that's, um, you know, earlier we, we were talking off air about, um, whether there was brewing schools or not-
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm
Chris Davison ... and, and, you know, accre- accreditation in there or how that all worked out and there really isn't, but it, you know, it's more of like a trade and y- and an apprenticeship kind of situation and you can be taught, um, there. And then and also every brewer kind of wants things done their own way, so we're doing something, our things a little bit differently than Seven Son who's a little bit different than Columbus Brewing.
Tim Fulton Right.
Chris Davison Um, but it's all the same thing in a roundabout way. Um, but yeah, you can, you can be taught. Um, so for me it's definitely I, I want someone who's hardworking. If you're hardworking, then you're gonna pay attention and you're gonna, you're gonna do, uh, what needs to be done. Um, you could be the smartest person in the world, but if you're not- ... you know, know a lot about beer, but if you're not gonna work hard, then I don't want you in my brewery.
Tim Fulton Right. Talk about sort of, because there's no formal training, there's no licensing to this. There's no-
Chris Davison No
Tim Fulton ... you don't have to go to the state and prove that you can brew beer. It's not-
Chris Davison No
Tim Fulton ... like a-
Chris Davison Mm-hmm
Tim Fulton ... even, you know, the person that cuts your hair is licensed. Um, what are the legal aspects, though, that you have to keep in mind? You, you need to be aware of sort of the ABV of everything, right? Or is that just all taken care of on the back end?
Chris Davison Yeah, yeah. We, we need to track things from start to finish. Um, if you're not, um, recording data on the day you brew the beer until it's ready two weeks to 16 months later, depending on what you're doing-
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm
Chris Davison ... if you're not tracking it that entire time, then at the end you don't really know what you have with, on your hands. At least at our scale.
Tim Fulton And what's that data? Is that just what's going into it?
Chris Davison Yeah, so everything from ingredient lists, um, I was talking with the owner today e- even about, like, lot numbers on, um, bags of malt because if-
Tim Fulton Okay
Chris Davison ... there were a product recall, um, conceivably if there was, uh, I don't know, pesticide, uh, contaminating the malt, we'd need to know where that came from and what lot and, and trace it all the way back. And so the government wants to know that kind of stuff.
Tim Fulton Right.
Chris Davison Um, so-
Tim Fulton Unless, of course, you w- just wanna empty out every tank.
Chris Davison Yeah.
Tim Fulton Every tank and barrel.
Chris Davison Or just get rid of everything.
Tim Fulton Right.
Chris Davison Yeah, so yeah, that would save, save, uh, your ass in a lot of ways. So yeah, you wanna know what you're putting into your beer and the quantities, and then you're, you're measuring, um, sugar content, which we refer to as gravity, and that's, that's how we determine alcohol. We determine, um, sugar content before fermentation and after fermentation.
Tim Fulton Oh, okay.
Chris Davison So during, during fermentation, yeast turns that sugar into alcohol.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Chris Davison Um, and so we don't have the equipment that can measure alcohol directly. That does exist, but it's expensive.
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm.
Chris Davison So the roundabout way that we do it, the same way a home brewer does it, you measure sugar content before and after, and the difference, there's a formula you can plug it into that tells you how much alcohol you have.
Tim Fulton And you guys are... You have a fantastic kitchen for food, but you are first and foremost a brewery. And while the business model may get a significant portion of their income from the restaurant and, and the bar, you guys do distribute Wolf's Ridge Brewery.
Chris Davison Yes, we do.
Tim Fulton And your location is special. It is a, a liquor license specifically that surrounds the fact that you are a brewery.
Chris Davison Mm-hmm.
Tim Fulton I'm just curious about it because there are a lot of what I've thought of as McBreweries that have popped up-
Chris Davison Sure
Tim Fulton ... of, like, chains that have beer brewed on site. That business model is just interesting to me. 'Cause-
Chris Davison Yeah
Tim Fulton ... especially those guys, you guys are distributing the, your beer, but those places don't really seem to be distributing-
Chris Davison Mm-hmm
Tim Fulton ... the beer that they make outside of the restaurant.
Chris Davison Yeah, for the most part, that's correct. Um, I think a few do package beer. Um, I don't know if I have ever seen it in Ohio, but I think in some states you can buy Gordon Biersch-
Tim Fulton Okay
Chris Davison ... beer, maybe BJ's beer. Um, but al- most, for the most part, you cannot. Um, and definitely in Ohio, I don't think you can. Like, you can find Hofbräuhaus beer, but I think it's brewed in Germany.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Chris Davison Um, but you can find that in six-packs around town.
Tim Fulton I didn't realize they were a McBrewery.
Chris Davison Um, yeah-
Tim Fulton I'm kind of mad now
Chris Davison ... they actually are. Uh, and I didn't really realize it until-
Tim Fulton I know-
Chris Davison ... probably until they came to Columbus, but there's one in Cincinnati. They just built one in Cleveland. There's one in Louisville.
Tim Fulton Right.
Chris Davison There's probably, like, 10 other ones in the States.
Tim Fulton Well, and it is... I am using a pejorative term.
Chris Davison Sure.
Tim Fulton Like, I am sort of making fun of them for-
Chris Davison Yeah
Tim Fulton ... sort of being a chain that brews beer. What is your opinion of it?
Chris Davison Um, I, I kind of go both ways. So I think it's less authentic the more, uh, times you replicate that same thing.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Chris Davison Um, it, you know, and, and authenticity is, uh, really important to me in, in my craft and what I'm doing.
Tim Fulton Right.
Chris Davison But if, um, on the other side of things, if they're producing a good product, then, you know, I, I personally try to be accepting, uh, within reason for these, uh, um, you know, chain, uh, brew pubs.
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm.
Chris Davison So, um, I'm someone who will happily, if the situation, um, arises, enjoy a BJ's, um, Piranha Pale Ale. I used to actually drink a lot of that beer as I used to live up near Polaris-
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm
Chris Davison ... near there when it first opened. But, um, I will also tell you my heart sank when I realized that the Polaris location does not brew beer on site.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Chris Davison They've got some giant tanks, uh, behind some glass, but I think they're full of root beer or they're just serving tanks. They don't actually brew it there. It, it gets brought in from their La- uh, Las Vegas brewery.
Tim Fulton Hmm.
Chris Davison But the one, um, I can't remember where they opened the second location, Easton, I think it i- they are brewing there maybe.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Chris Davison So I kind of, uh, again, it's less authentic if you're calling yourself a brew pub or brew house or whatever name they choose to, to call it if it's not actually brewed there.
Tim Fulton Right.
Chris Davison Um, but if the, if the product is good, then I'll happily enjoy it. Um, but there's probably less room for creativity and freedom there.
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm.
Chris Davison Um, it's not where I would send the craft beer nerd who wants something new and exciting.
Tim Fulton Right.
Chris Davison But on the other hand, um, you know, Gordon Biersch makes really high-quality German beer.
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm.
Chris Davison I'm happy to drink it. Hofbräuhaus does the same thing, and I have a lot of fun when I go, but I don't go real often. So I k-
Tim Fulton Right
Chris Davison ... I'm kind of, I kind of go back and forth. Like, when the Ale Trail first came out, uh, a couple years ago, and since then, more and more people are arguing, um, back and forth about do we include every brewery or allot every brewery in the Columbus area-
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm
Chris Davison ... um, be part of that? And so there's, like, 38 in this year's Ale Trail book, and next year there'll probably be 50. And some people who wanna complete every one don't wanna see breweries on there that in their eyes aren't a real brewery.
Tim Fulton Right.
Chris Davison But technically they are. They are-
Tim Fulton But-
Chris Davison ... brewing br- beer there.
Tim Fulton Right.
Chris Davison But they don't wanna have to stop at Hofbräuhaus and Rham and, um, Gordon Biersch and BJ's and, and maybe three different BJ's-
Tim Fulton Right
Chris Davison ... you know, just because there are three. Um, so that kind of gets a l- little annoying. Um, and I can see that side of the, the coin.
Tim Fulton Right. Well, and I don't want you to sh- throw shade at all, but what then is the difference between you and somebody who's- In charge of brewing at some place like BJ's, is it simply that they're sort of taking orders, following a recipe, and that that's their job, nothing wrong with it? What is the difference?
Chris Davison Yeah, uh, largely that is the case. In most of these breweries there is a small amount of freedom to brew your own recipes.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Chris Davison Um, when the ex head brewer at Gordon Biersch, Keith Jackson, he now started his own brewery, it's called Combustion out in Pickerington.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Chris Davison His last year there, they were starting to give him considerable freedom because I think, to some extent, they found out their business model is kind of outdated now, being centered around German beers. There's, there, there's a lot of competition with German beer in Columbus now for them.
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm.
Chris Davison So he was given a lot of freedom to brew his own beers. Um, there's a little bit of that at Ram. But, but yeah, for the most part, they're, they're brewing core beers, core brands, and they're, they're, they're adhering to a recipe, adhering to whatever arbitrary rules, uh, may be set up for that corporation because they want it to be exactly the same, um, all over the country.
Tim Fulton Well, they want it, they want it to be r- replicatable, basically.
Chris Davison Exactly.
Tim Fulton Right.
Chris Davison Um, so but sometimes they're... I, I find, um, some of it arbitrary. So Gordon Biersch famously, um, wanted to be hyper German.
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm.
Chris Davison And so according to the Reinheitsgebot, which gets tossed around a lot, that's that German beer purity law-
Tim Fulton Okay
Chris Davison ... um, that, you know, says beer can only be brewed with water, malt, and hops, and then later they added yeast, um-
Tim Fulton Okay
Chris Davison ... when they originally created it, um, they didn't know yeast existed hundreds of years ago. But, um, so in order to be Reinheitsgebot proper, um, Gordon Biersch was not allowing their employees to dry hop beers. So the head brewer would brew an IPA, but he couldn't dry hop it, which is an integral part in creating a good aromatic IPA.
Tim Fulton Hmm.
Chris Davison Because that, and that's the process of adding hops to fermented beer on the cold side.
Tim Fulton Right.
Chris Davison Um, they were not allowed to pump pure oxygen into their beer, um, after they, uh, brewed it, and that's an integral part to creating healthy yeast.
Tim Fulton Huh.
Chris Davison Um, every brewery in the country does that, but they were pumping in, um, purified compressed air, and there's oxygen in that air, but it's not as ideal as pure oxygen.
Tim Fulton Right.
Chris Davison And slowly some of those rules started coming away, but that was one of the things he had to deal with, um, because of the corporate nature. Even though he knew better, he knew it would, would have produced better beer if you could, um, change some of those rules.
Tim Fulton But it's what he was hired to do, and he's not the boss.
Chris Davison Exactly. So yeah.
Tim Fulton And so just like any job, right?
Chris Davison Yeah. So yeah, the difference there is, um, at Wolf's Ridge, um, I've kind of been given complete freedom to do as I see fit to direct the program to produce the best possible beer-
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm
Chris Davison ... to give it an identity. And-
Tim Fulton Well, and you're still expected to brew the beers that were sort of around and popular before, right?
Chris Davison Um, yes and no.
Tim Fulton You, you inherited some recipes.
Chris Davison I did inherit some recipes. Um, honestly, um, not a single recipe I brew today is the same as it was when I got hired.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Chris Davison Um, a lot of the beers that were around are gone or have changed names because the recipe changed so drastically.
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm.
Chris Davison Um, other ones, like Clear Sky, our American cream ale, is one of our flagship beers, and it's t- spawned infused versions like Daybreak, the coffee version-
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm
Chris Davison ... as our best-selling beer.
Tim Fulton Which is delicious.
Chris Davison Um, and that's just Clear Sky with vanilla and coffee added to it. But Clear Sky today is not remotely resembling what it was three years ago when I first got hired. And so that's one of the things that, um, I can't thank the owners, um, especially Alan Suter, the, um, head of the brewery at Wolf's Ridge-
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm
Chris Davison ... um, enough credit, um, for my personal development there and allowing me to change the beer program. As, as long as what I'm doing is working and it makes sense and whatever, like, he, he gives me free control. So, um, we're continuing to brew Clear Sky, but I, I did what I felt was right for that recipe.
Tim Fulton Right.
Chris Davison And so a cream ale traditionally has a high percentage of corn in it, and originally it had zero corn. And so now it has 40% corn. There's a lot of corn in that beer now-
Tim Fulton Okay
Chris Davison ... because that's what a cream ale should be. And so for me, I'm very traditional in how these classic styles are brewed, and a lot of times I'm buying very expensive imported grain from Germany or Belgium or England because it's the best quality grain or because it's what's traditional for a certain style. And so that's another thing where in a corporate environment you probably have a contract with a malt supplier-
Tim Fulton Right
Chris Davison ... for a very cheap price, but then it may also not be the best quality malt.
Tim Fulton Right.
Chris Davison And you don't have a lot of freedom in, you know, you know, developing your recipes because you're all using the same grain in every recipe.
Tim Fulton Right.
Chris Davison So it's harder to change that flavor profile. So, um-
Tim Fulton It's n- it must be nice to have both the leeway in the process and the price, certainly.
Chris Davison Exactly. Yeah. So and I think, um, ultimately that's one of the reasons why the consumer has, um, really latched onto us because whether they realize it or not, it's creating this really unique identity that we have that a lot of breweries don't have, is I'm putting so much thought into some of these ingredients, um, regardless of price. And, and that is something we're always conscious of, of course.
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm.
Chris Davison And, you know, we're, we are making money and trying to make sure-
Tim Fulton Yeah, 'cause it does translate to the end consumer.
Chris Davison For sure.
Tim Fulton Right.
Chris Davison But, um, you know, everything I do is, is thoughtful and with a purpose and, um, authentic, and it has my style attached to it.
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm.
Chris Davison Um, I've talked to, um, other customers or brewers that will, like, read a label, and he'll be like, "You definitely didn't write that label, but I think you wrote this one." And I'm like, "How would you know that?" And he's like, "It just sounds like you would have said that." You know, and it has, like, my, my flair to it, but and then that translates across, like, everything that we do. And so-
Tim Fulton Right
Chris Davison ... that's something that a corporate McBrewery, so to speak, uh-
Tim Fulton They just can't do
Chris Davison ... definitely does not have. They cannot do that-
Tim Fulton Right
Chris Davison ... uh, by nature.
Tim Fulton Talk about the other people in Columbus that are doing good work.
Chris Davison Okay. So, um, I mean, I came from Columbus Brewing Company, and they still are arguably the best or one of the best breweries in the city. Um, they, um, I'm, I'm really excited to see their, uh, portfolio of brands expand over the last year or two-
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm
Chris Davison ... because the entire time I was there, and one of the reasons I was unhappy there was because I brewed IPAs six days a week-
Tim Fulton Right
Chris Davison ... for like two years straight. Um, and that's their best-selling beer for good reason, but it just, um- You know, became more like a factory than a creative brewing job, and that's, you know, why I got into the industry. I loved the creative nature of brewing beer-
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm
Chris Davison ... as a home brewer. At the time, you know, it was a lot of IPA, maybe a seasonal that was a flash in the pan, and Bodhi once a month. Um, and now, you know, you can find Bodhi regularly in bottles that people wanted for so long, and so, you know, they're bottling Creeper and they're- they've got a Scottish ale and a lager and a, and a pale ale or two, and all these other brands. Um, and so that's really exciting for me to watch, um, them finally get to do things that they used to talk about doing all the time, and they're all very, very good beers. Um, Seven Sun, um, is definitely again at the foreground. Um, they're doing, um, a lot of stuff with a similar mindset to what we're doing-
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm
Chris Davison ... but they have their own style, and I think you can see and taste it in their beer and their branding. Um, it has, um, uh, Colin Vent's, um, uh, passion and, and different styling behind some of those recipes.
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm.
Chris Davison Um, they do a lot of really quirky beers, but they do a lot of like, uh, really hop-heavy beers, IPAs and double IPAs that are very, very good. And they're one of the other breweries in town that's starting to dabble in the, um, quote-unquote, "sour world."
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm.
Chris Davison And so far they've been doing mostly, um, Brett beers, which are the ones that don't have acidity but they are funky, um, in flavor and aroma, and they've been very good. Um, and they've done a kettle sour, which is, um, a different process of, um, quickly souring a beer, um, versus fermenting it in the tank. You're kind of doing it before you boil it, um, and we don't necessarily have to get into like the technical nature of it, but not to say it's not a real sour, but it's not at all what a Terre de Sauvage is or what-
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm
Chris Davison ... we're doing at Wolf's Ridge is. It's a completely different process.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Chris Davison But they are building a facility for some of these more traditional barrel-aged sours. So, um, definitely Columbus and Seven Sun. Um, every time I go to Lineage, um, there's a, a couple beers that really impress me, uh, that I really dig, and they're doing a lot more very drinkable beers.
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm.
Chris Davison And I do a lot of that myself. A la- um, a large part of our portfolio is smaller ABV beers.
Tim Fulton Yeah.
Chris Davison You know, we do bottle releases where people line up for flavored cream ale that's a 5% beer, and most breweries around the country can't get away with that. It needs to be a double IPA or an imperial stout or a barrel-aged something.
Tim Fulton Right.
Chris Davison Um, so that's really cool. And so I really dig a more drinkable, lower alcohol beer, and they do a lot of stuff like that that, um, I really get into. Um, they're another brewery that's doing, uh, kettle sours. Um, so, um, if you want acidity, um, uh, those beers definitely have that. A couple of different Berliner Weisses, which is a wheat sour that came from Germany, and usually they add fruit to theirs, um, which is, uh, unique and, uh, they're always adding different blends of fruit, which is pretty cool.
Tim Fulton It feels as though there's a lot of breweries popping up in Columbus. Is Columbus unique in that, or is this a nationwide trend?
Chris Davison It definitely is a nationwide trend. When I first started brewing professionally, there were-
Tim Fulton Tell, tell me Columbus is great at it, though.
Chris Davison Oh, I think so, and I think we're doing a better job than a lot of cities are.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Chris Davison Um, um, we've got a lot of, uh, room to grow in not only numbers, but also in just, I don't know, community education and, um, I don't know, I don't know the right way to describe it, but I just feel like our beer scene isn't as mature-
Tim Fulton Okay
Chris Davison ... as one that would be from like Portland, Maine or Oregon. They're both huge beer scenes, um, with great mature beer scene, um, scenes there. Denver, um, San Diego, you know, the, the, and a few other places. So, uh, Chicago maybe. So the, um, there's some of these beer scenes that are super, uh, mature. Um, breweries have been there for a long time producing, um, boundary-pushing beer for a long time, and the consumer is well aware of that, and, um, I think across the board they're buying up all the different styles.
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm.
Chris Davison And right now, Columbus is a very young beer scene. And so, um, we've got a lot of quantity and we're adding more, uh, it seems like every week or more.
Tim Fulton Yeah.
Chris Davison We're adding a new brewery or two, um, and that's really cool. But, um, most of these breweries are less than five years old, and honestly, out of 38 on the Ale Trail book, I'd say or guess that at least 50% are less than two years old.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Chris Davison So, um, you know, there's just a difference there in, um, in the caliber-
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm
Chris Davison ... and experience of the brewers at a lot of these places, and also the consumer because 10 years ago-
Tim Fulton They're not as educated
Chris Davison ... there were two breweries, you know?
Tim Fulton Right. Are there things that Columbus can do better, or is it simply that we just haven't matured enough?
Chris Davison I think it's, I think it's that, because there's not a lot you can do to change the mindset of the consumer. Right now, a lot of the consumers in Columbus really are gravitating towards really hoppy IPAs.
Tim Fulton Yeah.
Chris Davison And that is the, the fastest-selling style across the country and has been. It's the fastest-growing style still for like 10 years straight or something.
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm.
Chris Davison But while I love a good IPA, there's a lack of subtlety and nuance and skill to some extent that goes into making a really hoppy beer-
Tim Fulton Okay
Chris Davison ... versus like a really clean lager or a well-done, you know, one-month or, or one-year-old, um, barrel-aged stout or a two-year-old barrel-aged sour. A lot of the professional, um, lore and books will talk about how you can hide up anyth- you can hide any flaws with enough hops. You can't do that with a lager, and that's where they used to like praise like Budweiser because of the consistency of that super clean, neutral-tasting product, and it's hard-
Tim Fulton Right
Chris Davison ... to do that. Um, and so there's a lot of breweries that are focusing on that, and it's a trendy thing and whatever else, but I feel like as the beer market matures, you're gonna see more and more people wanting session beers with, that are lower in alcohol.
Tim Fulton Right.
Chris Davison And, you know, they're gonna gravitate back towards those German lagers. You know, there's a lot of German-themed chain breweries for a reason, because those beers are really drinkable.
Tim Fulton Right.
Chris Davison Um, and they agree with a lot of people. So, um, I th- you know, that, that's almost the metamorphosis of the craft drinker as a whole. I th- like, and kind of how I- tracked my progress as a brewer or beer drinker.
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm.
Chris Davison Um, I got into big sweet stouts and IPAs, and then I got into barrel-aged stouts, and then I got into, um, sours. And then after all of that, like, my palate just felt tired of always drinking high alcohol or super strongly flavored-
Tim Fulton Right
Chris Davison ... beers or whatever else. And then all of a sudden, all I wanted to drink was German lager.
Tim Fulton Right.
Chris Davison And I tell people all the time my favorite style is Helles lager. And my favorite beer to drink at Wolf's Ridge is a 5% German Helles lager. It's like a beer that is like the way beer, um, tastes or the way you imagine beer. If someone just says beer and you think of one thing, usually it's this golden, um, really drinkable beer.
Tim Fulton Right.
Chris Davison And that's kind of what Helles lager is. Um, but there's still a lot of flavor in how we're doing it versus, you know, some other breweries. So I think that, you know, that's just a maturing of my palate and my tastes.
Tim Fulton Right.
Chris Davison And some people may never come down from wanting barrel-aged and high ABV beers, but I think a lot of people, um-
Tim Fulton It's where the market will go.
Chris Davison Yeah, I think that's where the market will go over time.
Tim Fulton Yeah. Cool. Chris, thank you so much for your time.
Chris Davison You're welcome.
Tim Fulton Thank you for listening to the Confluence Cast presented by Columbus Underground. Again, you can get more information on what we discussed today in the show notes for this episode at theconfluencecast.com. Please rate, subscribe, share this episode of the Confluence Cast with your friends, family, contacts, enemies, your favorite brewer. If you're interested in sponsoring the Confluence Cast, get in touch with us. We can be reached by email at info@theconfluencecast.com. Our theme music was composed by Benji Robinson. I'm your host, Tim Fulton. Have a great week.
