
Coffee Talk
How do you take your coffee? You sure? We sat down with two roasters, Crimson Cup and Brioso Coffee, to talk about what makes a good cup of coffee, a bad cup of coffee, fair trade, and a little about running a small business.
Shownotes:
- Specialty Coffee Association of America
- Coffee Quality Institute
- Crimson Cup Innovation Lab
- Seven Steps to Success
- The Columbus Coffee Experience
Big thank you to our sponsors this week, Crimson Cup and Destination Donuts.
Read the transcript
Ladies and gentlemen, welcome to the Confluence Cast presented by Columbus Underground. We are a weekly Columbus-centric podcast focused on the civics, lifestyle, entertainment, and people of our city. I'm your host, Tim Fulton. This week, we're gonna do a little bit of coffee talk. We talk to two of the original roasters in town about the coffee scene in Columbus, fair trade, how you can get your cup of coffee, how you shouldn't get your cup of coffee, how globalization and communication has affected the marketplace, and we talk a little bit about running a small business in Columbus. First up, a conversation with Brandon Burr, the coffee sourcing and the education manager for Crimson Cup, then a chat with Jeff Davis, the owner of Brioso Coffee, which now has two locations in downtown Columbus. You can get more information on the roasters and more things that we discuss today in the show notes for this episode at theconfluencecast.com. This week, the Confluence Cast is sponsored by Crimson Cup Coffee and Tea, Roast Magazine's 2016 Roaster of the Year in North America. They travel the globe to buy awesome coffee directly from farmers, then carefully hand roast each bean in small batches here in Columbus. Sip on their award-winning coffees, nitro-infused cold brews, and coffee cocktails served up at their coffee houses in Clintonville and Upper Arlington. Learn more at crimsoncup.com. Enjoy the interviews. Sitting down here with Brandon Burr, the coffee sourcing and education manager for Crimson Cup Coffee. Brandon, how are you today? Awesome. Thanks for having me. Good. Thank you so much for coming. Thank you so much for bringing coffee. Uh, my office is actually out today, and so this is a, a pleasant surprise. Tell us, first of all, about Crimson Cup and how it got its beginnings. So Crimson Cup has been around, we just celebrated our 25th anniversary, uh, this year, and, uh, we, we started off 1991 doing a little bit of office, uh, coffee supply, and then we just, uh, started getting into the coffee house scene and started supplying independent coffee houses, and now, um, we've grown to a point where we're providing over 150 full line customers in around 32 states and also Bangladesh.
Why that market specifically? Uh, so one of our largest clients is OSU, and so, uh, some students there fall in love with the idea of our coffee and, um, the idea of having a coffee house, and they go back home and they miss it, and so that's the case here where someone missed it and wanted to take it back to the people of Bangladesh. There you go. Hopefully more international students latch onto the coffee. Absolutely.
Good. How long have you been there? So I've been with Crimson Cup for a little over six and a half years. Okay. And you have, you are, per the website, you are a cupper there at Crimson Cup. You- I cup coffee.
What is a cupper? So a cupper is someone that analyzes, uh, flavors and, uh, aromas and just, uh, quality of, of a cup of coffee. And there's, there's certain protocol for that, and there's, there's standards, regulations, procedures, and, uh, I'm- Is there, is there an overseeing body that- There is. So, like, we use the SCAA, which is Specialty Coffee Association of America.
Okay. We use their protocol, and that's kinda like the, the gold standard. You can get more information on the SCAA in the show notes for this episode. Absolutely.
So but you specifically are a little bit sort of higher up. While you are a cupper- Yes ... you are also, what is the term for, for your certification? So I'm a, I'm a Q Grader, which is a, which is a certification kinda similar to, like, a sommelier. It's given out by the Coffee Quality Institute, which is a non-profit institute, uh, kind of funded by the SCAA.
Okay. Walk me through your day or maybe a, a fiscal quarter of your job and sort of what, what it is that you do. So part of, part of what I do is I help run this location that we have down in Bexley. Uh, it's called the Innovation Lab. This is an area where we have a classroom and an application lab, a roasting lab, and a cupping lab, and we try to innovate new products, new drinks, new coffees. Uh, we also teach and train. So I'm typically running barista classes. There's, there's a gentleman there, Dave Eldridge, and he runs a roasting class. And, uh, soon enough in late October, we actually get inspected to become an SCAA certified lab, and that means that we can start giving out Barista Guild, um, certifications and Roaster Guild certifications, cupping certifications, so on and so forth. So then in addition to the education aspect, I also work with Dave closely, and we cup coffees. We cup existing coffees. We cup samples that come in from different countries, uh, from different travels that we take, just a, just a lot of that. Do you have a lab coat that you wear? Is that the sort of environment that you're working in, or- Mm, I, I currently... I would love a lab coat, um, but I currently w-
I think you should demand a lab coat. I currently wear a, some aprons. Okay. Different aprons. I kinda collect aprons, tell you the truth.
Okay, so it is sort of a, not a sterile environment, but a formal environment for cupping this coffee and, and creating it and sampling it. Absolutely. The r- the room is, there again, there's guidelines and procedure, and that's not just with the actions of cupping. There's, there's rules that you have to have, you know, white, you try to have white walls, and you can't have any distinguishable smells inside the room or facility, and there's certain things that you have to, you have to have in the, in the lab, and it has to be quiet, and everyone has to focus, and no one can talk during the cupping, and- Is that true? Yeah.
O- Absolutely. Okay. Okay. Crimson Cup is, while it does have two physical-... locations here in Columbus, two rather consumer locations. Yep.
You also have the facility in Bexley. Yep. It is primarily a supplier of coffee to third-party coffee shops. Absolutely. So th- the majority of our business is in the wholesale end, where we roast, I don't know, we roast over a half a million pounds right now, and that goes out to colleges and universities, it goes out to independent coffee houses, specialty retailers. We have a really good relationship with a lot of guys in town, like The Hills and Wyland's. Um, again, I said OSU and several other colleges and universities. But, uh, also some consumer, direct-to-consumer from our roastery.
And so what's unique, I think, though, is that you do offer training to those individual coffee shops. Let's say I was interested in getting a coffee shop going in a, in a small location. Right. I could come to you and say, "Hey, I'm vaguely interested in using your coffee, but I also actually just need help in learning how to start a coffee shop." For sure. So that's, you know, Greg, the owner of the company, ha- had written a, a book several years back, it's called Seven Steps to Success, and, uh, that's something that we encourage our clients to use and to read before they actually think about getting into the coffee industry, make sure they're really serious about it. That's, that's just one aspect of it. And then, you know, when they do say, "Yes, we wanna open up the coffee house," we kinda offer them marketing and training and, and things to that effect.
Is that part of what happens at the location in Bexley? Absolutely. So that's, like, our... That's the training, training area as well as, uh, the innovation area. So you brought in some coffee today, again. I did.
And thank you for that. Talk about where this comes from, 'cause I think it gives a good illustration of sort of how you guys work and how you acquire your coffee. Absolutely. So this is an Ethiopian Kosa Kabina. It's a coffee that, uh, we found in Ethiopia. I was there in January with several other roasters this, this trip. We went there to make a relationship with an existing place that, a farm that we buy coffee from, and it just didn't work out. We, we still gotta make that relationship, but, uh, this, this coffee kinda fell into our laps and we really, really liked it, and we brought it back home and roasted it and found out that it was pretty spectacular. So it is similar to a wine rep or a wine buyer going out to California specifically for, like, one vineyard, and then taking a day and touring around and then discovering something totally new and something they didn't necessarily expect. Absolutely. So we, we went, and this, this was just kind of, we fell into it. The person that took us, the, the company that took us, had been purchasing coffee from a, a specific co-op, and so we found a neighboring, uh-
And this is a co-op of farms? Yes. Okay. And the neighboring farm had a lot separation, so they, they kinda separated the certain coffee from the rest of the coffees, and I said, "Hey, man, I wanna try that." And so I got a sample in, and sure as heck, it was really, really good.
And so what happens then in terms of logistics? You then make an agreement for a purchase- Yep ... and you get it here. So it's, it's, it's kind of a really complicated process, 'cause a lot of things can happen from point A to point B.
Well, you're talking about international shipping, too, right? Right, and you're talking about a grain that has a, you know, moisture content of 11 to 13%, so- Okay ... there's a lot of things that can happen within the container, within the bag, that, that can alter the flavor of the coffee, and coffee is really good at doing some crazy things during shipping. So we get a sample when it lands in, like, let's say we get our coffee in New Jersey.
Okay. So we get a sample, we approve it, and we say, "Yes, this is good." If something were to happen, there's insurance, obviously, from point A to point B, and, um, that all gets very complicated, and there's, like, over eight government agencies that you have to talk to to get a container of coffee into the United States. And I assume you've got guys that sort of handle that. Y- you are not necessarily the guy on the ground handling that sort of thing. That, that typically, that typically is the case. We, we typically have a, an agent help us out with that.
Okay. And so once it gets here, once all that is handled, then sort of the roasting process happens. Yep. So then we take it to that innovation lab, and, uh, we roast it several different ways. We try it in different methods, and then we say, "Okay, this is the way we wanna do it." We come up with a curve, and we talk to our production roasters and say, "Hey, guys, let's, you know, let's do this curve." And they try it, and they say, "Yeah, I agree. This is good." So there's a long process from getting it into the building to getting it to the consumer, 'cause we've gotta figure out where we wanna put it and how we wanna roast it. How long is that process, then? It's anywhere from maybe two weeks to, I don't know, a month if, if, if we're really slammed with new coffees.
Okay. And what's, I mean, what's the shelf life, then? Like, what's the... I'm getting into the nuts and bolts, 'cause it's the- No, I love it ... it's the thing I'm interested in. You know, you have some risk of it going, quote-unquote, "bad," right? Right. So there's so many different variables in that mix. Well, the thing that I think consumers don't, don't really typically understand is that there's a resting period for the coffee. So when we, when we pick the coffee off the tree, we process it, and there's, there's a lot that goes into that, and there's a lot of hands that touch it there. But then after it's been dried to that 11 to 13% moisture, we want to let it rest. Because if we were to just take it and roast it as is, it'd be very, um, green flavored, so very vegetal-
Okay ... uh, because it's very, very fresh. So we want it to rest, and we want s- some of the chemicals inside to change a little bit. Having it two months after it's actually been picked is a good thing, and then even maybe an additional month of rest when it gets to the United States is a really great thing. And that coffee, depending on what its Like stored in, if it's stored in like a jute bag or if it's stored in a GrainPro, which is like a plastic pretty much like a Ziploc bag. Okay. If it's stored in one of those, it can last a lot longer than if it's just stored with open air.
Where's the production facility? Our production facility happens to be about a mile and a half down Alum Creek towards Bexley. Does it smell good down there? It does, but roasting coffee smells different than roasted coffee. It just has... I mean, you can always, traveling through Chicago neighborhoods, you can always tell when you're close to a roastery because of the s- the smell in the air. But, uh-
Do you like that smell? I do, actually. I don't. No, I, I know-
And a lot of- ... people that don't ... 'cause it sme- I mean, I like the smell of coffee, absolutely. Right
But it smells a little, you know, it smells like something is wrong. Right. It smells like, it smells like burning a bit. Right.
At the Innovation Lab in Bexley, you guys offer consumer courses as well. We do. What happens in that consumer course? What, what can people learn? So there's, there's several different consumer courses that we have, and we're just gonna, we're gonna continue to expand them. You know, we just opened that facility January 15th, so-
Oh, okay ... uh, we're trying to get this, this certification process done, and then we'll offer even more consumer classes. But right now, we have a Coffee 101 class, where it talks about, you know, processing coffee, the history of coffee, how coffee gets from point A to point B. Okay So from there to here to you. And then we also have a roasting class for home roasters, and that's just a, a really basic, like, this is how you-
Here's the thing- ... get a roast curve ... thing you buy. Right
Here, here are the different th- ways that you can use it. Right. Okay. And then we also have a brewing class. Um, we're gonna be offering a barista class for consumers. So if someone's like a, you know, they have a small espresso machine at home and they wanna know how to use it a, a little better at least-
Right ... then they can come in, and we can give them some tips and tricks. Do you imagine that scaling and sort of seeing that as an ongoing revenue stream? Or is it sort of like a, an affinity-building exercise with consumers? That's pretty much what it... I mean, we're not, we're not there to, to make a ton of money off of our consumers, and I, I think that the education is... Everyone, everyone in a Columbus Coffee has the same goal, and that's to educate consumers and to bring awareness to the supply chain or, like, what I like to call it, the value chain.
Okay. So the, we wanna make sure that they know that there's, uh, 25 million people that touch their coffee before it actually gets to them. So- Gross ... there's a... Yeah. But there's, there's a lot of people that are, that are involved and that depend, you know, their livelihood depends on, on coffee, and it's just not something that's just made automatically, you know?
Right There's a lot of, there's a lot of attention and detail that goes into it. And so the, these consumer courses are to bring more awareness to that, increase the quality of the cup, hopefully change people's minds about, you know, it's just not, it's not bean juice. It's something a little bit more special. Right, and we've talked on this podcast with people in the past about sort of being in... It is a commodity. Right.
It is truly a commodity- Yep ... and that's not, unless you're going to a very specific kind of coffee shop, it's going to continue to be a commodity for people. Right.
Can you give me sort of a, a brief rundown of what a customer who maybe drinks Folgers, what can you know about c- coffee? For instance, what's the difference between light and dark roast coffee? So light and dark roast, uh, can be several things. I can, I can... A lot of people equate it to time. Okay. But I, I don't think that's a good way to, to say it. It's, it's more of a temperature thing. So if I light roast a coffee, I can light roast a coffee, and I can have light roasted coffee that's roasted for 20 minutes. I don't want it to be 20-minute long roast 'cause you're gonna bake it, and it's not gonna have any acidity, and it's gonna just taste bland.
Okay. So dark roasted coffee can be roasted in five minutes if you just crank up the heat high enough. It's about light... The difference between light roasted and dark roasted coffee is just the way that you caramelize the sugars and the, the way that you, when you dump it, at what temperature. Typically, you dump light roasted coffee at 4:00 to 4:15 or something like that. And so what's the difference for the customer, then? For the customer, I'd say it's just flavor. So people light roast coffee to highlight the true flavor of the coffee, whereas people dark roast coffee to kinda disguise. This isn't always necessarily the, you know, the way that it is, but for us, you might dark roast a coffee if there's some imperfections in the bean. You might dark roast a coffee because that's the way that you like to drink it. So I'm not gonna say that light roasted coffee is better than dark roasted coffee.
But you're saying that light roasted coffee- But if- ... is better than dark roasted coffee ... if I, if I have a 90-plus point coffee, I'm not gonna dark roast the flavor out of it-
Right ... because it's just been, there's t- been too much attention paid to that, you know, that bean to get it to that point, and I don't, I don't wanna get rid of those flavors. But I imagine that there are some beans that lend themselves a little bit more to dark roasting. Ab- absolutely. Like, I like dark roasted Guatemalan coffees, like really high-grown Guatemalan coffees because they're typically really chocolatey, and they have a lot of lemon acidity to them, so there's a lot of citric acid that's formed and malic acids that's formed. And so it's usually really, really bright if you light roast it. If you take it just a little bit further, you, you can kind of tame that acidity, and, uh, you can do that light roasted as well, but I like that chocolatey note, that dark chocolate note that you get out of it.
You referenced a 93-point coffee. Yeah. What do you mean by that? So coffee, um, specialty coffee is anything over 80 points, and we have this scale. And so that cupping, the cupping protocol and procedure, we use a form, and it, it puts a, a number value to each aspect of the coffee, like acidity and, and sweetness and body and so on and so forth.
But this is not a, it's not like the Olympics- No ... where there's a judge in the corner. It's literally you guys are g- given the standards that you're aware of- Yep
... you guys rank the coffee. Absolutely, and that's part of this, you know, this Q Grader thing, the, that I, the certification that I have, is to make sure that everyone's talking the same language, that everyone's calibrated enough that they can say this- ... is a 93-point coffee, and you got a bunch of people that can agree upon that so that we can talk the same language. We wanna make sure that when I rate something a 91-point coffee, someone's not gonna rate it a 99 or a, a 79, you know, that we're all around the same, same number. But that score, the higher it is, it is truly, quote-unquote, better coffee. Absolutely. Anything over 90 is outstanding.
Okay. What rank are the coffees that are served at the two customer-facing locations in Columbus? So we have anywhere from 86-point blend to, um, a 95, rated 95-point coffee. Okay. So it just de- it de- just depends on what you want, you know? Uh, our espresso just-
Well, why wouldn't someone want the higher ranked coffee? Because typically you wanna pay a little bit more attention to the brewing variables when you're, when you're brewing a 93-point coffee rather than an 87-point coffee or, you know, something like that. I, I just think that if someone wants something very good, very fast, good things come with time. So if, if you wait five minutes, I can brew you a fantastic cup of 87-point coffee or a fantastic cup of 93-point coffee. I think that it just is what the consumer wants, so the c- consumer demands speed, efficiency- Right ... so, uh, it's really hard to deliver-
'Cause there's a difference between you guys brewing it back there with like a pour-over- Right ... and you guys handing over a cup and letting them go to the corner and pour it for themselves. Right.
Talk about sort of the different, what are the different options for the ways that somebody can brew it for you there at the coffee shop? So we have, we have so many different methods. I mean, we, uh, w- well, let's- What are the, what are the call-outs that a customer can do? So if, if you want it in a Chemex, you can get it in a Chemex. If you want it-
What's a Chemex? A Chemex is a, it's a, a glass vessel and it has a very, very fine paper filter. I mean, it's been around forever. I think it got its patent in like 1941. Okay. And, uh, they used to actually blow the glass here in the United States, and now that's outsourced, but they're still made in Pennsylvania. It's just a really pretty, um, piece of coffee equipment. It's actually in the Museum of Modern, Modern Art.
Okay. But it produces a fantastic cup of coffee. So it's just a, it's a cone pour-over, so you just have a cone shape on the top. You pour water over the top of the coffee in a very specific way, and y- the resulting beverage is delicious. So then we have a clever coffee dripper, which is like, it uses the same principle as a home maker. Like, it has the, has the same kind of filter, like a number two, number four filter, and it's just a steep and release. So the coffee sits in there with hot water, and then you put it on top of a cup and it releases, and I really like that way. It's like a cleaned-up French press- Okay ... essentially. And then we have the French press. There's great versions of that, and there's okay versions of that. I'm not a huge fan of it because there's not a lot of purity in the cup, but again, like, if you're a dark roast person, French press just adds to that sensation. You know, gives you more body and gives you more of that carbonic flavor if you're into it. In addition to that, we have, uh, Hario V60, which is another cone. It's, uh, the filter isn't as fine as like a Chemex, so you get a lot of flavor notes out of it. A lot of like, a lot of the solubles come through that filter, so there's a lot of flavor highlights. So y- if you put a really not so great coffee into that kind of method, you would be highlighting some of those not so great flavors.
Gotcha. So you need to have a good coffee for that method in my eyes. How would you recommend someone sort of discovering their favorite cup of coffee? I think that just, just being open-minded and trying as many things as you possibly can. You don't know if you like something until you try it.
Absolutely. So if, uh, if you wanna try something, if you wanna come to our shops and try something and, uh, you're really confused on what to get or, just ask a barista and they should be able to guide you through the process and give you a good idea of what you might like- Or even s- ... according to what you already do like.
Or y- yeah, i- indeed, just walk up to them and say, "This is the kind of coffee I normally have." Right. How much do you judge people that, like, pour a ton of sugar in their coffee? No judgment. I mean, everyone's palate's-
Great ... everyone's palate's different. Okay. So I've seen people take, like, I saw someone take a 90, a mid-90 point coffee and put pumpkin syrup in it. And that just recently happened, and it hurt my heart a little bit.
Right. But at the same time, if that person doesn't enjoy that cup of coffee and they had to put a little sugar in there to make it, uh, more- Palatable- Yeah
... for them ... abs- absolutely, then you know what? That's them, you know? There's, there's no judgment passed on those people. I- But it still hurts your heart a little bit. It does, 'cause I just know the hard work that went into it to put that pumpkin syrup into the coffee. So it's okay.
Can you speak to the coffee scene in Columbus and sort of how you've seen it evolve and sort of what you like in cert- in terms of trends that are happening? Yeah. Absolutely. So I've been in coffee for over 10 years now, and when I first got into coffee, there was several- How did you get started in coffee? Just working as, as a barista, or- So yeah. So I kinda fell into it. I, I went to culinary school for a little bit and fell into a management job at a local coffee company and then just worked my way up and started getting into it a little bit more, and then found my way to Crimson Cup.
Can I ask where that was? It was at Nordstrom Espresso Bar. Ah. Yes.
Ah. So I, I, uh, it was a lot of fun. So yeah, it just, it just led me to Crimson Cup, which really made me evolve as a coffee professional. But Columbus in general has just become o- one of the best places for coffee in the United States. I think that we're super underrated, and people don't realize that- Well, under-recognized ... under-recognized-
Right ... for sure, because people, people I think from Pittsburgh, from Dayton, from Cincinnati, I mean, even those, tho- all those places, Indianapolis, all those places have great roasters. I think that Columbus has a really good concentration of really high-end roasters. I mean, there's so many, so many good people in town doing a lot of, doing a lot of in- innovation, and that's the thing. If you want something different, you can come to Columbus and try what... I think we're, we're leading the pack, and they can try something that is new and exciting. Is there sort of any recognition for Columbus? You know, you see all these, you know, number six best place for young professionals- Right
... and is Columbus sort of receiving accolades like that for its coffee? I think there's been a few articles here and there about it. We won, uh, Roaster of the Year. Through Roast Magazine and- Crimson Cup did ... Crimson Cup did. Though that is about us, at the same time, I think things like that can only bring attention to the Columbus coffee market. You know, I had several roasters reach out to me and say, "Hey, man, congrats. Thanks for doing, you know, for pushing this through and, you know, doing a press release about this," because this is kind of a big deal for Columbus, and it brings more attention to everyone within the market, within the industry. More things like that can only help. And, you know, you got the guys down at OneLine going to competitions and stuff, getting a lot of accolades for that. You know, the guys at Briosso and Mission doing awesome things, Fox In The Snow, all these, all these different cafes that are doing some, some great things. And, uh, I think as we continue to grow as a community, and we get closer and closer and closer, and we start, start doing more events, the more recognition we're gonna get.
Are there Columbus-centric events that people can check out to sample the different roastings, learn more, not just from... While I'm sure your experience from customer education is fantastic, if somebody wanted to sort of sample what Columbus has to offer, are those things available? Well, last weekend we had the, the Columbus Coffee Cr- Caffeine Crawl. That's a, that's an annual event, and that's something where this, this company out of Kansas City, Missouri, they, they do this in different cities around the United States, and they picked us up last year. Okay. And this year w- I think was a, a great success again. They had two days of tours, so a lot of people grabbed onto that and got to experience different, different coffee companies in, in Columbus. In addition to that, there's the Coffee Trail.
Mm-hmm. You know, the, the, the Columbus Coffee Experience as well. I think as we grow, there's gonna have to be an event that highlights all of us roasters and all, all of the shops, 'cause, I mean, there's, there's a, I think there's a demand for it within the market. Great. Talk about sort of what guides your work in terms of sustainability, in terms of fair trade, and I know that b- given that it's a commodity, it's something that people talk about a lot. Right. So I think something that, that we are super passionate about is our own direct trade program. We call it Friend of Farmer, and it's, we have criteria for it, and we're actually developing it a little bit further and, and holding ourselves... We r- really wanna hold ourselves accountable for what we're saying we're doing, and we want people to be able to, um, see the traceability, 100% traceability to, to the process and to the product. We work within several different countries like Guatemala and Honduras and, you know, I was just in Peru for my third year down there, and we're doing some projects with these people, and we work with agronomists in those areas, and we, we really try to increase the quality of the cup, 'cause I personally think that that's part of sustainability, is-
Mm-hmm ... you know, consumers want higher, better graded coffee. We wanna provide that, and farmers need education, and, and bringing in agronomists from the local area into those farms to help, you know, educate is a, is a huge part of that. And I'm sorry, for those that don't know, what's an agronomist? An agronomist is someone that, uh, is familiar with agriculture. So-
Okay ... like, just, just production, cultivation of crops, and understanding botany, and I think that it's, it has to be area specific- Okay ... 'cause, you know, soil is different in every area.
It's different every- all around the world, right. Absolutely, and different varietals and, you know, different farming methods and cultures as well. I mean, you gotta, you gotta really understand the culture that, that is within that coffee-growing country. So I think that's something that we're super passionate about, is, is bringing that story to the consumers, again, bringing that transparency to the consumer so that they understand this is a person behind this cup, and there's, there's a lot of people that depend on you enjoying this cup of coffee, you know, and, uh, appreciating that it's, it's not just a small commodity product. It's, it's something greater. It's someone's livelihood. I just wanna turn it on its head just a little bit- Yeah
... and say are there, what do you roll your eyes at, and, you know, what are the bad things that are happening? Gas station coffee. Right. Uh, Starbucks. Is there... Everybody's trying to provide a, a, this commodity- Right
... a cup of coffee to people. What are the, quote-unquote, "bad ways" that that's happening? For me personally, I hate when we talk about origin-specific coffee at, like, really big, really big places, that they're just saying it because it's, it's sexy, or, you know, it, it- Because people like saying the word Guatemala? Yeah, Guatemala or Brazil, Brazilian coffee. And the, the reality behind a lot of those places is that, you know, they're buying commercial grade coffee.
These are factory farms. Yes. Right. So, uh, factory farms are, these are farms that are, y- you know, these are collectors getting coffee from small farms that, you know, aren't being paid what they need to be paid or not being-
Because there's a middleman- Absolutely ... sort of acquiring things that simply go into a silo. Absolutely. There's good and bad in any industry, and people take advantage of other people, uh, especially when there's a lack of communication, but that's the great thing about the, the evolution of our world, the globalization. You know, I think that with, with the access to internet in the middle of nowhere, which is just insane to be-
Right ... in the middle of a, a jungle and have internet. I think that with that, farmers are being educated, and they're starting to understand what, what they need to know to sell their coffee, to sell their product. As, you know, the more they know about their product, the more, the more money they can get for it or the better they can represent it. And I think that, you know, there's just a lot of companies out there that push the, the sexy side of coffee when the reality of the situation is it's someone's livelihood, and it, it, you know, we've, we've gotta treat it like that. While I'm sure you guys aren't the cheapest coffee supplier- Right
... can you speak to the economics and sort of the financial end of it, and how are you able to, while selling this commodity, where you need to keep the margins as tight as you can- Right ... able to invest the time in, one, doing those travels, making relationships with farmers, having an innovation lab where you're truly sort of linking up the coffee that you discover and then finding the best way to roast it in order to gain the ranking that, that it can, that a cup- Right
... of coffee can. Because I imagine some beans can't be a 96. Right. So- No, that's the case for sure
... is it simply sort of that's your goal, and so that's why you do it that way? I mean, yes. I mean, that's, that's such a great question. I, I think- How do you do it? How do we do it? Open communication relationships. So it's, it's funny, like, going from a corporate setting to going to a small business setting, usually you find it to be a little bit more lax in the small business, and it's not... You know, there's not as many, like, things that are black and white. There's a lot of gray.
Mm-hmm. I think that, um, it's even greater in the coffee industry, you know, going from corporate coffee to, to regular, like, to o- like, a small business like us. We... There's a lot of gray. There's a lot of feelings, and in business, you know, that might not necessarily be the best way to, to look at things. But at the same time, we're all people, and, uh, it doesn't matter if you're in, in the jungles of, you know, Papua New Guinea, or if you're in New York City, we should all be treated the same, and we should all, we should all have open relationships with ether- w- with each other, and open communication and understanding. And so I think that us just being completely honest and saying, "Hey, we need to make this mutually beneficial. I wanna help you, but at the same time, I have those cost of goods that I have to worry about." Right. "I'm a business, and I... And, and, you know, uh..." Greg has to think about it all the time, like, you know, "I've gotta support these 50 employees," or whatever. And so there's, there's numbers that go into it, but at the same time, there's feelings, and there's, there's relationships, and I think that a solid foundation, a, a good relationship will get you further in the future. It's, it's long-term investment, and again, it's sustainability rather than instant gratification.
Great. Brandon, thank you so much for your time. No, thank you, man. Yeah. Really appreciate it.
This week, the Confluence Cast is sponsored by Destination Donuts. Their unique, decadent donuts use quality ingredients. They never put any preservatives, additives, or other fake stuff in their goodies, and they strive to use locally sourced ingredients whenever possible. Swing by their locations in the North Market and select coffee shops throughout Columbus to take care of your donut fix. You'll be glad you did. Check out their flavors and locations at destinationdonuts.com. Sitting down here with Jeff Davis, owner of Cafe Brioso, celebrating round about 15 years in business on East Gay Street. Just this year, is that right, opened the Long Street location? January 4th. Great, great. And how's Long Street going? It's going very well. You know, the point of that expansion was to expand our coffee brand and our production ability, so that was number one, nailing down all that, working with now a satellite location in two locations, ironing out how the coffee flows.
Mm. That's gone very well. Uh, we're starting to see a lot more cup traffic 'cause we have a coffee bar there as well- Okay ... uh, with the students of CCAD and Columbus State coming back, and-
Yeah ... having, you know, nine months of business in, we're, we're now starting to see some very good cup traffic, so. Well, that, um, kinda sucks that it had to wait so long for that sort of traffic to increase, right? We knew it was gonna be a long wait when we signed the lease. So we knew we had, you know, a year plus before the landlord was gonna work on the space and, and we would be in there. And then of course there were delays on top of that.
Right. Uh, you know, so the goal had been to open before school started up in the fall- Okay ... of 2015.
Okay. And then we got open in January. You know, it's winter. The students were gone for a while. The residential neighborhood is being built all around us. Yeah. So that's a... You know, people moving in all the time, but everything is still being built.
Right. Let's, uh, let's go back 15 years. Okay. How did you start Brioso? Well, I started in the coffee business in 1995. I was fortunate enough to get a job at Stauf's Coffee Roasters, which was really, you know, pretty much the only game in town. Uh, Crimson Cup obviously existed back then, too, but they... I see Stauf's as really what started the specialty coffee movement in Columbus.
Mm-hmm. You know, going back as late, early as 1988, I think they opened. Uh, so I was lucky to pursue a job and, and get a job in the production space at Stauf's, and, you know, I worked my butt off every day, uh, until I got an opportunity to train to roast, uh, become- 'Cause you were doing, like, delivery work at that time. Yeah, I started as a delivery driver, the person that, uh, added the flavoring to the flavor-added coffee.
Okay. Is that just dumping a bag of sugar- So that's just, you know- ... into something, or? Uh, there, there are specific, uh, flavor oils they're called-
Okay ... where you would apply them to the beans as a percentage by weight. Oh, okay. So this is not, like, pouring- So all, all post-roast
... in the sugary syrup into- Right. Okay. And you came to Columbus to be a student at, uh, Capital. I went to school at Capital, yes.
And what'd you study there? Political science. And how does that translate into coffee? It does not.
Okay. Uh, I g- I learned enough about political science to learn that I don't think that's the world for me. Okay. That's fair. That's fair. You know, I'm kind of a blue collar guy. I like, I like hands-on work. You know, obviously politics still interests me greatly, but, uh, coffee is my passion.
Okay. Talk to me about how Brioso actually got started. Well, I'd gotten a little burned out at Stauf's and, and left, but I had really developed my skills specifically to cupping, tasting coffee, and roasting coffee. And can you sort of define cupping? Uh, cupping is just the process of evaluating green coffee for purchase-
Okay ... really is how I use it. It's the language that producers, exporters, importers, roasters would all use to communicate about the qualities of coffee. Gotcha. And so you'd gained some expertise and said, "I don't necessarily want another job. I don't necessarily wanna work for another person." I sought out the coffee business and getting a job at Stauf's because I needed to wake up every day and go to work to do something that I love to do and was passionate about, regardless of how much money I was making or any other circumstances other than I cannot wait to get to work.
Okay. So that's really what drew me to the coffee business. I guess I'd always been kind of an entrepreneurial-minded person, you know, without ha-Having a clear idea of what I wanted to do, always wanted to have my own business. Then when I had the skill and was able to develop the skill of, of roasting coffee, I thought it was time to kinda take the plunge. I wasn't really actively working on another business when I left Stauf's, but my mom called me one day and said, you know, knew it was a dream to own my own business. I had talked about opening a coffee place. She calls me and says, "Hey, we have a little bit of seed money. I want you to get started on this full-time." That was, that was the call that got it, you know, and then really the next morning, you know, that's my full-time job. And so that's when you start looking for spaces, when you start figuring out, you know- Yeah, I hired a com- I hired a business consultant first.
Okay, smart. You know, had definitely done a lot of reading. What was that process like? For tho- for those that are thinking about starting their own business, that's obviously a way to do it. What was it like working with a business consultant, getting it all going? Uh, I think that he kinda just took worrying about the whole big thing away from me, and then fed me weekly, you know, we would have a weekly meeting, and then each week he would feed me the next step and give me a list of homework.
Okay. I don't think that I could have done it nearly as well without a business consultant. It was- Certainly not as efficiently ... a little bit of an investment, but it wasn't a reach-
Right ... at all, and I thought that was, you know, maybe the best money that I had spent on the whole project- Right ... right from the get-go.
Is it sort of a process where the first week they're like, "Okay, now you get incorporated. Now you set up a bank account. Now you look for a location." Yes. "Now you price out the cost of build-out. Now you price out the cost of equipment." You then go and do the homework, bring it back to them, and they may even say, "Uh, this doesn't seem reasonable." Right.
Okay. Yes. Were there points like that where you were like, "I want the biggest roaster so that I can go into..." 'Cause you weren't in wholesale, you guys were just doing, you were just roasting for yourselves at that point. Yeah, I was only, as far as the, the roaster was concerned, was only focused on roasting coffee for us.
Right. Do you guys roast at the Gay Street location anymore? No. Okay. There'll be bigger and better things to come for that location.
Why is that? Well, one, just the practical, you know, it, it doesn't make a whole lot of sense. I wasn't really sure when we opened the roastery how I was gonna handle that, just because it was part of the neighborhood, and, and me being there, and the roaster being there, you know, sells a lot of beans, brings people into the store. It's just been part of, of that corner for 15 years, and- Right ... I wasn't sure what was gonna happen with that. Mainly at this point, you know, the neighborhood is evolving and changing, and there's big investment going on surrounding our location, and, you know, we need to kind of reinvest and, and renovate the store to match that, and match what the neighborhood-
Yeah, so what you're saying is getting more seats in there, being able to sort of serve more people, because that's the primary business of that location. Yeah, kind of fixing some of the mistakes that I made in the 15 years ago on the design. Okay. Uh, being a little bit more high volume, uh, being able to improve our kitchen, mainly with the space and equipment and facilities which will allow us to do more and more interesting food, potentially stuff on the weekends like brunch.
What other mistakes do you think that you made at the time that you opened, or what other sort of mistakes did you make in the past- I mean, the- ... 15 years? ... the location, finding the space was very difficult. You know-
Okay ... we had done our homework on all the neighborhoods that were good neighborhoods. Most of them were either... Most of them were connected to downtown, so they were centrally located, but it wasn't downtown. All the neighborhoods connecting, Clintonville was a- Appealing ... probably the-
Yeah ... the top choice at the time, and I just wasn't... was getting very discouraged, honestly, about finding the space. We had not looked at downtown, so I drove downtown, parked in the alley, and said, "I'm just gonna, I'm just gonna walk all these streets and see something that visually appeals to me. This is where I wanna come to work every day." Well, and for those that don't know, Gay Street was a lot different back then. Yeah, you know, downtown was, was rough. It wasn't very appealing, but Gay, Gay Street actually kind of stood out-
Okay ... with all the small buildings that were left. It had that charming appeal, especially to pedestrians. Still a walkable little strip. Still walkable. You know, all the changes that have been made since we've been there have, you know, really made it much more walkable.
Fantastic. Fantastic. So I s- I saw that the, you know, the city and other business leaders had identified that corridor as a place that's gonna do well and help bring downtown up. When did you make the decision to basically expand, to move into the Long Street location? Well, I knew when it would get uncomfortable with the production of the coffee and the roasting that it would be time to get a bigger machine.
Okay. So we had hit that point and been there for a couple years where, you know, that roaster is maxed out. Okay. You're literally roasting as much as you possibly can- Right
... and still trying to keep up. So initially I looked at, you know, upgrading our production capabilities in the context of staying in the space, which just was not possible. A larger roaster was not gonna fit in there. Uh, other problems like getting green coffee delivered at the corner of High and Gay became very difficult. Okay. Uh-
Well, I imagine some storage issues too, right? You know, we were storing coffee in the basement, so we would unload bags, sometimes possibly from High Street while sitting in the bus lane, move them one by one into the elevator, down to the basement, move them back up when you need to start using them. It was a lot of work and very inefficient. And that's not a great elevator, I have to say. No. So it was clear if we were going to do more with our production, we needed to do it somewhere else.
Okay. And you chose to stay in downtown. It is a less sort of traveled, less pedestrian-friendly area of downtown, but it's certainly not, you know, a warehouse district or s- you know, something by the airport. Right. We had kinda looked at, at a warehouse first. We would've been able to get up and running a lot sooner. The very first thing I did was purchase the roaster- Okay ... and then went to find a space. Uh-
Was that cart before the horse a little bit? Uh, yeah, I guess looking back it, it turned out that way. Okay. Not to be critical at all. I, I, I don't... Well, it was a, a unique situation where the roaster was in the United States because it was at the annual coffee convention.
Okay. So it had already been imported, there was a discount. It was an opportunity that needed to be jumped on right away. Is it fair to say that that was actually the impetus for going ahead and moving forward with the new space? Yeah.
Okay, awesome. It, it had to happen, but something has to happen first, you know? Right. The first domino has to fall.
Sometimes that's the way that stuff happens. So it turns out that that's the way that it was. We had looked at moving into a warehouse. I, I like being able to sell cups of coffee next to the roaster. Okay. I like the process being visible. I like people coming into the store. You know, I like interacting with customers.
Well, and seeing the whole process. Now, where do you purchase most of your beans from? I use a couple bigger coffee importers- Okay ... that actually own their own warehouses in the US. So they're the only two importers that own their warehouses.
You know it's coming and when it's coming. Yes, they're, they're very good with getting the coffee to us on time. I've worked with both for a long time. One of them, I've worked with almost our entire history. Okay. And I work with a, a direct trade relationship with a coffee farmer in Colombia that I'm in contact with, you know, through text messaging, Facebook, other social media, email, on a regular basis.
Uh-huh. And they've actually been to our shop numerous times. Another, what I would call a boutique importer, called 90+ Coffee. Really super high-end coffees, very limited, very small amounts. What is the name of the score? 90+ is a reference- 90, yes, 90+ is a reference to the cupping score.
Right. So their company was kinda based on the idea that we're only gonna bring in coffees that would score above a 90 out of 100 in the cupping score, with the goal of getting multiples of the market prices that farmers are paid for coffee, getting them multiples of that in return for cup quality. So in addition to trying to maintain sort of a fair trade business model, you've also done a little bit of endeavoring and moving towards endeavoring into social enterprise activities. Can you talk about that a little bit? Yeah. Uh, we have a relationship with Starfish Alliance that serves the foster care community in central Ohio, all age groups. The specific program we're involved with is Link 22, serve foster kids who have turned 18 and were not adopted by their foster parents.
They've aged out. They've aged out. Like, I was in college, and, and, and most of us, you have support system- Mm-hmm ... of parents, family members, friends, places to crash, you know?
Right. And if you need money, you're in a tough spot, you have somebody to go to to help you. These kids don't have that. They might not have the, the mentoring that you need in early adulthood to, to kinda find your way. So I, I thought that, that coffee and our training program would be a really good fit for those kids to kinda teach them communication, life skills, uh, you know, simple things like following recipes, working with other people. Right. Um-
And while it is a pretty specific trade that l- you just outlined certainly a lot of skills that are applicable in a lot of different areas. So what, what is the nature of your partnership, then? Is it, is it simply the training and- Yeah, we had worked on a concept to open a very small coffee bar, and we would train them. Eventually, they would run the coffee bar, and there would be kind of a tiered training based on, based on success. So if you're successfully have become a barista, then, then next we're gonna start working on you being a manager. Okay. If you've successfully become a manager, then we're gonna train you to think like an entrepreneur and a business owner.
Is this a project that's still in process, like- So the, the coffee bar- ... still trying to make that happen? ... the coffee bar idea is off the table for the moment.
Okay. Uh, and so we're working on an internship with hopefully at least two interns that we will train regular baristas for our company, and they'll also have a... The enterprise piece would be the interns kinda developing their own coffee brand, maybe engaging in some markets that the Brioso Coffee doesn't and might be a better fit for them, like office coffee, fundraiser type of coffee, to pay for their internship. That's great. And then, and then all of the, the entire program, Link 22, that Starfish is doing, we will use the Brioso Coffee space for all. There's a number of other organizations and, and layers to the program that don't directly involve us.
Gotcha. Let's turn a little bit. Since you've opened the Long Street location, you are doing wholesale now. Yes. How's that going in terms of business development, and what sort of main lines of work have you been in? You know, we were very confident in our product.
Okay. But when we start looking at getting serious about, about wholesaling, there was just a lot of things due to the nature of the business at Cafe Brioso, how busy... You know, it's a high-volume cafe. Mm-hmm. You really are just kind of reactive to what happens every day, and-
Right, you're putting out fires ... not proactive. Right. So, you know, being in that space gave us some time to sit down and be more proactive about it, and, you know, we... At this point, we've kinda determined that we have a lot of work to do before we really wanna make a push to do a lot of wholesaling.
It's fair to say you are literally in a time of transition- Yes ... of like, you've gotten that Long Street location up- Yes
... and, like, now you're sort of able to stand up, look over, you know, your domain, and say, "Okay, what do we do now?" And we, and we also have to, to manage a high-volume cafe- Right ... from a, from almost another location. You know, I'm at both locations every day.
Okay. But I'm trying to learn how to manage that place without me being there all the time, and I, I think that was a bit of an adjustment. Is that difficult for you- Yeah, we-
... to sort of take your hands off a little bit more? You know, we, well, we took, we took strong people out of that location and put them into the new location, and then just the whole new thing of having two businesses. Right. It's entirely different.
Yeah. Other than having two businesses and sort of the added just labor on you, what do you find is the most difficult part of owning a business? Is it sort of managing those people? Is it the business hoops that you have to jump through? Is it the budgeting? Is it the finance? What, what, what are the things that you not necessarily struggle with, but certainly take up a lot more time than you thought was going to? Day to day, it's, it's managing the people. Okay. Personally, I'd say I struggle more with the, the office type of work, you know, being a hands-on guy, being a coffee roaster.
Because you don't wanna go to the back office- Right ... and do it. Right. I, I'm in the office and I can hear what's going on, uh, in the cafe, and I would certainly much rather be there. You know, the finance, the numbers-
Doing payroll sucks, man ... staying on top of that, I do have some... My mom is a partner in the business, and she's- Okay ... a fantastic help, coming down a couple days and really helping with the bulk of the office work. Now, technology has changed quite a bit since we've opened, and have definitely made all the numbers and dollars, made that much, much easier-
You don't have a notebook anymore ... to deal with and stay on top of it You have a laptop, right? Right.
Because you are from Kenton, Ohio. Small town, northwest Ohio. And so your mom's still up there- Yes
... and comes down? Comes down- Awesome ... a couple days a week.
Jeff, can you talk a little bit about sort of the experience at Briosso, what you see a customer experiencing, and also sort of what you wish a customer would know about coffee? I think that a vast majority of the population drinks it. I don't know that they know a whole lot about it. Yeah, I could probably talk for hours- Okay ... on that question. Just to back up a little bit, we're coffee guys. We're kinda coffee nerds. Everyone is very passionate about what we do and, and has their own love story with coffee. Um-
Okay. Do you... Uh, other than Stauf's, do you have a love story? I mean, my... You know, before I worked at Stauf's, that, my, what turned me on was going to Stauf's and buying single origin coffee, uh, not putting cream and sugar in it, you know, in the context of the '90s, preparing it well- Mm-hmm ... and just being blown away at the flavors that are in the coffee.
Well, and the diversity that's there, right? So I think that's always been in my mind. You know, we're, we're kinda purists. Our, our job is to buy really good green coffee. Then we process it by roasting it, and then we use water to extract flavors from it. Okay. And that's all that we do for every process that we have. So we, we try to keep it-
But there is a lot that goes into that. Yeah, you know, but we try to keep it simple and, you know, to not get off-track on what we're doing. Okay. Half the quality in your cup of coffee, uh, half of that comes from the green coffee that was used. The other half of it's gonna come from the processing and the grinding and the extracting. So at the cafe, you know, my job is to source the coffee, uh, which would be a process of, of getting green coffee in, sample roasting it, cupping it. Uh, one thing that's changed with the new place is that will now involve more of the staff, instead of just really solely being my job, and-
Well, 'cause you're able to in terms of space, right? Right. So that, that's been something that's really cool, is to get everybody cupping and to have more input on the process of what coffee I'm buying. 'Cause then when we bring it in, those employees that participated in that have ownership of that already. They know that coffee already. They know what to expect. They can talk about it.
They had a hand in bringing it here. They have a passion in selling it. And they're, they're making it their own when they're, they're selling it to people. You know, that's really, from the customer's standpoint, our experience is very one-on-one, and we rely on verbal communication to really provide the great experience. We don't have a lot of printed materials. We don't have a lot of stuff to read. You know, we train our people to be able to articulate our products and services to customers. Right.
And, you know, you really, you kinda have to feel out each individual customer to find out where they're at in their coffee journey and the things that they like. The language sometimes gets confusing, 'cause people, coffee shops use different language, you know? Well, and it's a whole culture. The, the national chain has their own language- Right
... that none of the rest of us use. So they just- It can get- ... they just made up on their own
... it can get confusing. Right. What are some of the basic things that you find that people don't know about coffee? Again, it's green, you roast it, you then use water to extract the flavors. I think one of the biggest things to, that's hard to understand unless you work with coffee every day, is how much it changes. Okay.
It's never in a state of equilibrium, whether it's on the tree, whether it's in the green form or roasted form. Uh, it will change faster or slower at different points in that change. And, and at the higher end, you know, even if we've done everything well, it's gonna change from day to day. The same coffee is gonna change a little bit over time. What's an ideal amount of time from roast to brew? Uh, we like to work with everything within a couple weeks. Oh, okay.
Uh, depending on, on where we're gonna plug it in, espresso can last a little bit longer. I definitely wouldn't want anyone buying, purchasing bean coffee or ground and taking it home that was beyond two weeks- Okay ... assuming that they're gonna consume it in the next two weeks. How do you-
So I, I would like everything to be consumed within a month of coming out of the roaster at worst. Okay. Talk to me a little bit about the Columbus coffee culture and sort of what you've seen over the past 15 years. Well, I guess, uh, when we opened the cafe in 2001, there were really two players in the market. Two games in town, right?
Yeah, uh, Stauf's and, and Crimson Cup. Okay. Crimson Cup, I believe, did not have a storefront, was just a, a wholesale roasting facility at that point. Right.
Uh, the, the third wave coffee is starting to take hold in other places, like San Francisco, Seattle, Portland, more West Coast happening first. What do you mean by third wave? Uh, sometimes we describe the industry in, in waves- Right
... as far as, like, what its focus was. Uh, first wave, second wave, third wave. Right. You know, the, the market is just learning about specialty coffee. So there was a lot of focus on roast, large lattes with gobs of flavored syrups. You come into a coffee shop, and there's, there's 100 choices of syrups that you can add with whipped cream on top. So we're making, you know- Do you make that-
... we're making milkshakes. Uh- It's not coffee. It's- Is that what you're saying?
That's not... It's a milkshake. Okay. That's fair. But if that's your- That's absolutely fair
... if, if that's your access point to coffee, like, I don't wanna be a coffee snob and, and sit here and say that that offends me, because that's bringing people into the market. Eventually, some of those people are gonna think, "Isn't there something more interesting or better for me to experience in the coffee world?" Right. And those people might go towards a shorter drink, like a cappuccino or a- Or black coffee. Right. Who else, again, when you got started, it, there were only a couple of games in town. Who else now is doing good work, whether they be a r- roaster or just a coffee shop?
The thing I hate about this question is my fear of leaving somebody that's doing a good job out. Okay. And that's a, that's a good problem to have. You know, I kinda felt like we were on an island when we opened up in that we had to still sell the idea of specialty coffee to people. Now, having other coffee businesses in town, especially the roasters that we've seen in really the last, I guess, 10 years it's been happening, is we don't really have to push the idea of specialty coffee as much. Because people understand it?
And it's just in general become more popular. Okay. So now we can focus on, like, our interpretation, our style, and the way that we like to do things. And so there's no sort of infighting among that community. It's much more like-
Uh, well, I mean, you know, I, I think that part of the success, we're all of us working with each other. Uh, there's, there's still a website out there that exists from 2008, 2009, Columbus Coffee, I believe. Okay. So we started working together back then. Uh, Andy Luck from Luck Brothers was, was one of the initial people. Well, and now you guys are doing the coffee experience fr- through Experience Columbus.
Yeah, so, you know, we, we definitely, uh, spent time with each other, uh, did events called Barista Jams- Okay ... where we all get together and, and make coffee, have some fun little competitions, interact with each other. It's a networking event for- Right
... for coffee nerds. Well, similar to, like, a cocktail competition- Right ... or something like that.
That really fostered a sense of community among the coffee people locally, so I, I think that's been a big part of our success. Uh, the Columbus, the coffee roast that was done at the North Market was one of the first times I remember everybody sitting in a room at the same time having a conversation. Uh, so that, that was a big event. Uh, whenever we go to the national events, we all support and hang out with each other. Right. Uh, we go to each other's shops. Uh, we're more than happy, you know, when you get, when you get a customer that you know is, is really turned on to specialty coffee, or they're from out of town, it's, "Hey, you need to go to this place, and this place, and this place." Right.
So it's- Well, and it's great to sort of see that that sort of spirit of- You don't wanna be the only one. Right. Well, and it's good to see that spirit of collaboration, that it is also within the coffee community as well.
So a- you know, with the success that's, that's come with that, it's gotten a little bit tougher, but I feel like we're all friends, and we all speak very well of each other. That's a big part of why Columbus has a scene to the point where somebody like Experience Columbus gravitates to it- And sees it, yeah ... to use it for, for what their mission is. Great. Jeff, thank you so much for your time today, and best of luck with the wholesale business and the new location, and it sounds like everything's going gangbusters.
Yes. Uh, thank you. Uh, pleasure to be here. Thank you. Absolutely. Thank you for listening to the Confluence Cast presented by Columbus Underground. Again, you can get more information on what we discussed today in the show notes for this episode at theconfluencecast.com. Please rate, subscribe, share this episode of the Confluence Cast with your friends, your family, contacts, enemies, your local roaster. We can be reached by email at info@theconfluencecast.com. Our theme music was composed by Benji Robinson. I'm your host, Tim Fulton. Have a good week.
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Tim Fulton Ladies and gentlemen, welcome to the Confluence Cast presented by Columbus Underground. We are a weekly Columbus-centric podcast focused on the civics, lifestyle, entertainment, and people of our city. I'm your host, Tim Fulton. This week, we're gonna do a little bit of coffee talk. We talk to two of the original roasters in town about the coffee scene in Columbus, fair trade, how you can get your cup of coffee, how you shouldn't get your cup of coffee, how globalization and communication has affected the marketplace, and we talk a little bit about running a small business in Columbus. First up, a conversation with Brandon Burr, the coffee sourcing and the education manager for Crimson Cup, then a chat with Jeff Davis, the owner of Brioso Coffee, which now has two locations in downtown Columbus. You can get more information on the roasters and more things that we discuss today in the show notes for this episode at theconfluencecast.com. This week, the Confluence Cast is sponsored by Crimson Cup Coffee and Tea, Roast Magazine's 2016 Roaster of the Year in North America. They travel the globe to buy awesome coffee directly from farmers, then carefully hand roast each bean in small batches here in Columbus. Sip on their award-winning coffees, nitro-infused cold brews, and coffee cocktails served up at their coffee houses in Clintonville and Upper Arlington. Learn more at crimsoncup.com. Enjoy the interviews. Sitting down here with Brandon Burr, the coffee sourcing and education manager for Crimson Cup Coffee. Brandon, how are you today?
Brandon Burr Awesome. Thanks for having me.
Tim Fulton Good. Thank you so much for coming. Thank you so much for bringing coffee. Uh, my office is actually out today, and so this is a, a pleasant surprise. Tell us, first of all, about Crimson Cup and how it got its beginnings.
Brandon Burr So Crimson Cup has been around, we just celebrated our 25th anniversary, uh, this year, and, uh, we, we started off 1991 doing a little bit of office, uh, coffee supply, and then we just, uh, started getting into the coffee house scene and started supplying independent coffee houses, and now, um, we've grown to a point where we're providing over 150 full line customers in around 32 states and also Bangladesh.
Tim Fulton Why that market specifically?
Brandon Burr Uh, so one of our largest clients is OSU, and so, uh, some students there fall in love with the idea of our coffee and, um, the idea of having a coffee house, and they go back home and they miss it, and so that's the case here where someone missed it and wanted to take it back to the people of Bangladesh.
Tim Fulton There you go. Hopefully more international students latch onto the coffee.
Brandon Burr Absolutely.
Tim Fulton Good. How long have you been there?
Brandon Burr So I've been with Crimson Cup for a little over six and a half years.
Tim Fulton Okay. And you have, you are, per the website, you are a cupper there at Crimson Cup. You-
Brandon Burr I cup coffee.
Tim Fulton What is a cupper?
Brandon Burr So a cupper is someone that analyzes, uh, flavors and, uh, aromas and just, uh, quality of, of a cup of coffee. And there's, there's certain protocol for that, and there's, there's standards, regulations, procedures, and, uh, I'm-
Tim Fulton Is there, is there an overseeing body that-
Brandon Burr There is. So, like, we use the SCAA, which is Specialty Coffee Association of America.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Brandon Burr We use their protocol, and that's kinda like the, the gold standard.
Tim Fulton You can get more information on the SCAA in the show notes for this episode.
Brandon Burr Absolutely.
Tim Fulton So but you specifically are a little bit sort of higher up. While you are a cupper-
Brandon Burr Yes
Tim Fulton ... you are also, what is the term for, for your certification?
Brandon Burr So I'm a, I'm a Q Grader, which is a, which is a certification kinda similar to, like, a sommelier. It's given out by the Coffee Quality Institute, which is a non-profit institute, uh, kind of funded by the SCAA.
Tim Fulton Okay. Walk me through your day or maybe a, a fiscal quarter of your job and sort of what, what it is that you do.
Brandon Burr So part of, part of what I do is I help run this location that we have down in Bexley. Uh, it's called the Innovation Lab. This is an area where we have a classroom and an application lab, a roasting lab, and a cupping lab, and we try to innovate new products, new drinks, new coffees. Uh, we also teach and train. So I'm typically running barista classes. There's, there's a gentleman there, Dave Eldridge, and he runs a roasting class. And, uh, soon enough in late October, we actually get inspected to become an SCAA certified lab, and that means that we can start giving out Barista Guild, um, certifications and Roaster Guild certifications, cupping certifications, so on and so forth. So then in addition to the education aspect, I also work with Dave closely, and we cup coffees. We cup existing coffees. We cup samples that come in from different countries, uh, from different travels that we take, just a, just a lot of that.
Tim Fulton Do you have a lab coat that you wear? Is that the sort of environment that you're working in, or-
Brandon Burr Mm, I, I currently... I would love a lab coat, um, but I currently w-
Tim Fulton I think you should demand a lab coat.
Brandon Burr I currently wear a, some aprons.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Brandon Burr Different aprons. I kinda collect aprons, tell you the truth.
Tim Fulton Okay, so it is sort of a, not a sterile environment, but a formal environment for cupping this coffee and, and creating it and sampling it.
Brandon Burr Absolutely. The r- the room is, there again, there's guidelines and procedure, and that's not just with the actions of cupping. There's, there's rules that you have to have, you know, white, you try to have white walls, and you can't have any distinguishable smells inside the room or facility, and there's certain things that you have to, you have to have in the, in the lab, and it has to be quiet, and everyone has to focus, and no one can talk during the cupping, and-
Tim Fulton Is that true?
Brandon Burr Yeah.
Tim Fulton O-
Brandon Burr Absolutely.
Tim Fulton Okay. Okay. Crimson Cup is, while it does have two physical-... locations here in Columbus, two rather consumer locations.
Brandon Burr Yep.
Tim Fulton You also have the facility in Bexley.
Brandon Burr Yep.
Tim Fulton It is primarily a supplier of coffee to third-party coffee shops.
Brandon Burr Absolutely. So th- the majority of our business is in the wholesale end, where we roast, I don't know, we roast over a half a million pounds right now, and that goes out to colleges and universities, it goes out to independent coffee houses, specialty retailers. We have a really good relationship with a lot of guys in town, like The Hills and Wyland's. Um, again, I said OSU and several other colleges and universities. But, uh, also some consumer, direct-to-consumer from our roastery.
Tim Fulton And so what's unique, I think, though, is that you do offer training to those individual coffee shops. Let's say I was interested in getting a coffee shop going in a, in a small location.
Brandon Burr Right.
Tim Fulton I could come to you and say, "Hey, I'm vaguely interested in using your coffee, but I also actually just need help in learning how to start a coffee shop."
Brandon Burr For sure. So that's, you know, Greg, the owner of the company, ha- had written a, a book several years back, it's called Seven Steps to Success, and, uh, that's something that we encourage our clients to use and to read before they actually think about getting into the coffee industry, make sure they're really serious about it. That's, that's just one aspect of it. And then, you know, when they do say, "Yes, we wanna open up the coffee house," we kinda offer them marketing and training and, and things to that effect.
Tim Fulton Is that part of what happens at the location in Bexley?
Brandon Burr Absolutely. So that's, like, our... That's the training, training area as well as, uh, the innovation area.
Tim Fulton So you brought in some coffee today, again.
Brandon Burr I did.
Tim Fulton And thank you for that. Talk about where this comes from, 'cause I think it gives a good illustration of sort of how you guys work and how you acquire your coffee.
Brandon Burr Absolutely. So this is an Ethiopian Kosa Kabina. It's a coffee that, uh, we found in Ethiopia. I was there in January with several other roasters this, this trip. We went there to make a relationship with an existing place that, a farm that we buy coffee from, and it just didn't work out. We, we still gotta make that relationship, but, uh, this, this coffee kinda fell into our laps and we really, really liked it, and we brought it back home and roasted it and found out that it was pretty spectacular.
Tim Fulton So it is similar to a wine rep or a wine buyer going out to California specifically for, like, one vineyard, and then taking a day and touring around and then discovering something totally new and something they didn't necessarily expect.
Brandon Burr Absolutely. So we, we went, and this, this was just kind of, we fell into it. The person that took us, the, the company that took us, had been purchasing coffee from a, a specific co-op, and so we found a neighboring, uh-
Tim Fulton And this is a co-op of farms?
Brandon Burr Yes.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Brandon Burr And the neighboring farm had a lot separation, so they, they kinda separated the certain coffee from the rest of the coffees, and I said, "Hey, man, I wanna try that." And so I got a sample in, and sure as heck, it was really, really good.
Tim Fulton And so what happens then in terms of logistics? You then make an agreement for a purchase-
Brandon Burr Yep
Tim Fulton ... and you get it here.
Brandon Burr So it's, it's, it's kind of a really complicated process, 'cause a lot of things can happen from point A to point B.
Tim Fulton Well, you're talking about international shipping, too, right?
Brandon Burr Right, and you're talking about a grain that has a, you know, moisture content of 11 to 13%, so-
Tim Fulton Okay
Brandon Burr ... there's a lot of things that can happen within the container, within the bag, that, that can alter the flavor of the coffee, and coffee is really good at doing some crazy things during shipping. So we get a sample when it lands in, like, let's say we get our coffee in New Jersey.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Brandon Burr So we get a sample, we approve it, and we say, "Yes, this is good." If something were to happen, there's insurance, obviously, from point A to point B, and, um, that all gets very complicated, and there's, like, over eight government agencies that you have to talk to to get a container of coffee into the United States.
Tim Fulton And I assume you've got guys that sort of handle that. Y- you are not necessarily the guy on the ground handling that sort of thing.
Brandon Burr That, that typically, that typically is the case. We, we typically have a, an agent help us out with that.
Tim Fulton Okay. And so once it gets here, once all that is handled, then sort of the roasting process happens.
Brandon Burr Yep. So then we take it to that innovation lab, and, uh, we roast it several different ways. We try it in different methods, and then we say, "Okay, this is the way we wanna do it." We come up with a curve, and we talk to our production roasters and say, "Hey, guys, let's, you know, let's do this curve." And they try it, and they say, "Yeah, I agree. This is good." So there's a long process from getting it into the building to getting it to the consumer, 'cause we've gotta figure out where we wanna put it and how we wanna roast it.
Tim Fulton How long is that process, then?
Brandon Burr It's anywhere from maybe two weeks to, I don't know, a month if, if, if we're really slammed with new coffees.
Tim Fulton Okay. And what's, I mean, what's the shelf life, then? Like, what's the... I'm getting into the nuts and bolts, 'cause it's the-
Brandon Burr No, I love it
Tim Fulton ... it's the thing I'm interested in. You know, you have some risk of it going, quote-unquote, "bad," right?
Brandon Burr Right. So there's so many different variables in that mix. Well, the thing that I think consumers don't, don't really typically understand is that there's a resting period for the coffee. So when we, when we pick the coffee off the tree, we process it, and there's, there's a lot that goes into that, and there's a lot of hands that touch it there. But then after it's been dried to that 11 to 13% moisture, we want to let it rest. Because if we were to just take it and roast it as is, it'd be very, um, green flavored, so very vegetal-
Tim Fulton Okay
Brandon Burr ... uh, because it's very, very fresh. So we want it to rest, and we want s- some of the chemicals inside to change a little bit. Having it two months after it's actually been picked is a good thing, and then even maybe an additional month of rest when it gets to the United States is a really great thing. And that coffee, depending on what its Like stored in, if it's stored in like a jute bag or if it's stored in a GrainPro, which is like a plastic pretty much like a Ziploc bag.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Brandon Burr If it's stored in one of those, it can last a lot longer than if it's just stored with open air.
Tim Fulton Where's the production facility?
Brandon Burr Our production facility happens to be about a mile and a half down Alum Creek towards Bexley.
Tim Fulton Does it smell good down there?
Brandon Burr It does, but roasting coffee smells different than roasted coffee. It just has... I mean, you can always, traveling through Chicago neighborhoods, you can always tell when you're close to a roastery because of the s- the smell in the air. But, uh-
Tim Fulton Do you like that smell?
Brandon Burr I do, actually.
Tim Fulton I don't.
Brandon Burr No, I, I know-
Tim Fulton And a lot of-
Brandon Burr ... people that don't
Tim Fulton ... 'cause it sme- I mean, I like the smell of coffee, absolutely.
Brandon Burr Right
Tim Fulton But it smells a little, you know, it smells like something is wrong.
Brandon Burr Right.
Tim Fulton It smells like, it smells like burning a bit.
Brandon Burr Right.
Tim Fulton At the Innovation Lab in Bexley, you guys offer consumer courses as well.
Brandon Burr We do.
Tim Fulton What happens in that consumer course? What, what can people learn?
Brandon Burr So there's, there's several different consumer courses that we have, and we're just gonna, we're gonna continue to expand them. You know, we just opened that facility January 15th, so-
Tim Fulton Oh, okay
Brandon Burr ... uh, we're trying to get this, this certification process done, and then we'll offer even more consumer classes. But right now, we have a Coffee 101 class, where it talks about, you know, processing coffee, the history of coffee, how coffee gets from point A to point B.
Tim Fulton Okay
Brandon Burr So from there to here to you. And then we also have a roasting class for home roasters, and that's just a, a really basic, like, this is how you-
Tim Fulton Here's the thing-
Brandon Burr ... get a roast curve
Tim Fulton ... thing you buy.
Brandon Burr Right
Tim Fulton Here, here are the different th- ways that you can use it.
Brandon Burr Right.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Brandon Burr And then we also have a brewing class. Um, we're gonna be offering a barista class for consumers. So if someone's like a, you know, they have a small espresso machine at home and they wanna know how to use it a, a little better at least-
Tim Fulton Right
Brandon Burr ... then they can come in, and we can give them some tips and tricks.
Tim Fulton Do you imagine that scaling and sort of seeing that as an ongoing revenue stream? Or is it sort of like a, an affinity-building exercise with consumers?
Brandon Burr That's pretty much what it... I mean, we're not, we're not there to, to make a ton of money off of our consumers, and I, I think that the education is... Everyone, everyone in a Columbus Coffee has the same goal, and that's to educate consumers and to bring awareness to the supply chain or, like, what I like to call it, the value chain.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Brandon Burr So the, we wanna make sure that they know that there's, uh, 25 million people that touch their coffee before it actually gets to them. So-
Tim Fulton Gross
Brandon Burr ... there's a... Yeah. But there's, there's a lot of people that are, that are involved and that depend, you know, their livelihood depends on, on coffee, and it's just not something that's just made automatically, you know?
Tim Fulton Right
Brandon Burr There's a lot of, there's a lot of attention and detail that goes into it. And so the, these consumer courses are to bring more awareness to that, increase the quality of the cup, hopefully change people's minds about, you know, it's just not, it's not bean juice. It's something a little bit more special.
Tim Fulton Right, and we've talked on this podcast with people in the past about sort of being in... It is a commodity.
Brandon Burr Right.
Tim Fulton It is truly a commodity-
Brandon Burr Yep
Tim Fulton ... and that's not, unless you're going to a very specific kind of coffee shop, it's going to continue to be a commodity for people.
Brandon Burr Right.
Tim Fulton Can you give me sort of a, a brief rundown of what a customer who maybe drinks Folgers, what can you know about c- coffee? For instance, what's the difference between light and dark roast coffee?
Brandon Burr So light and dark roast, uh, can be several things. I can, I can... A lot of people equate it to time.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Brandon Burr But I, I don't think that's a good way to, to say it. It's, it's more of a temperature thing. So if I light roast a coffee, I can light roast a coffee, and I can have light roasted coffee that's roasted for 20 minutes. I don't want it to be 20-minute long roast 'cause you're gonna bake it, and it's not gonna have any acidity, and it's gonna just taste bland.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Brandon Burr So dark roasted coffee can be roasted in five minutes if you just crank up the heat high enough. It's about light... The difference between light roasted and dark roasted coffee is just the way that you caramelize the sugars and the, the way that you, when you dump it, at what temperature. Typically, you dump light roasted coffee at 4:00 to 4:15 or something like that.
Tim Fulton And so what's the difference for the customer, then?
Brandon Burr For the customer, I'd say it's just flavor. So people light roast coffee to highlight the true flavor of the coffee, whereas people dark roast coffee to kinda disguise. This isn't always necessarily the, you know, the way that it is, but for us, you might dark roast a coffee if there's some imperfections in the bean. You might dark roast a coffee because that's the way that you like to drink it. So I'm not gonna say that light roasted coffee is better than dark roasted coffee.
Tim Fulton But you're saying that light roasted coffee-
Brandon Burr But if-
Tim Fulton ... is better than dark roasted coffee
Brandon Burr ... if I, if I have a 90-plus point coffee, I'm not gonna dark roast the flavor out of it-
Tim Fulton Right
Brandon Burr ... because it's just been, there's t- been too much attention paid to that, you know, that bean to get it to that point, and I don't, I don't wanna get rid of those flavors.
Tim Fulton But I imagine that there are some beans that lend themselves a little bit more to dark roasting.
Brandon Burr Ab- absolutely. Like, I like dark roasted Guatemalan coffees, like really high-grown Guatemalan coffees because they're typically really chocolatey, and they have a lot of lemon acidity to them, so there's a lot of citric acid that's formed and malic acids that's formed. And so it's usually really, really bright if you light roast it. If you take it just a little bit further, you, you can kind of tame that acidity, and, uh, you can do that light roasted as well, but I like that chocolatey note, that dark chocolate note that you get out of it.
Tim Fulton You referenced a 93-point coffee.
Brandon Burr Yeah.
Tim Fulton What do you mean by that?
Brandon Burr So coffee, um, specialty coffee is anything over 80 points, and we have this scale. And so that cupping, the cupping protocol and procedure, we use a form, and it, it puts a, a number value to each aspect of the coffee, like acidity and, and sweetness and body and so on and so forth.
Tim Fulton But this is not a, it's not like the Olympics-
Brandon Burr No
Tim Fulton ... where there's a judge in the corner. It's literally you guys are g- given the standards that you're aware of-
Brandon Burr Yep
Tim Fulton ... you guys rank the coffee.
Brandon Burr Absolutely, and that's part of this, you know, this Q Grader thing, the, that I, the certification that I have, is to make sure that everyone's talking the same language, that everyone's calibrated enough that they can say this- ... is a 93-point coffee, and you got a bunch of people that can agree upon that so that we can talk the same language. We wanna make sure that when I rate something a 91-point coffee, someone's not gonna rate it a 99 or a, a 79, you know, that we're all around the same, same number.
Tim Fulton But that score, the higher it is, it is truly, quote-unquote, better coffee.
Brandon Burr Absolutely. Anything over 90 is outstanding.
Tim Fulton Okay. What rank are the coffees that are served at the two customer-facing locations in Columbus?
Brandon Burr So we have anywhere from 86-point blend to, um, a 95, rated 95-point coffee.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Brandon Burr So it just de- it de- just depends on what you want, you know? Uh, our espresso just-
Tim Fulton Well, why wouldn't someone want the higher ranked coffee?
Brandon Burr Because typically you wanna pay a little bit more attention to the brewing variables when you're, when you're brewing a 93-point coffee rather than an 87-point coffee or, you know, something like that. I, I just think that if someone wants something very good, very fast, good things come with time. So if, if you wait five minutes, I can brew you a fantastic cup of 87-point coffee or a fantastic cup of 93-point coffee. I think that it just is what the consumer wants, so the c- consumer demands speed, efficiency-
Tim Fulton Right
Brandon Burr ... so, uh, it's really hard to deliver-
Tim Fulton 'Cause there's a difference between you guys brewing it back there with like a pour-over-
Brandon Burr Right
Tim Fulton ... and you guys handing over a cup and letting them go to the corner and pour it for themselves.
Brandon Burr Right.
Tim Fulton Talk about sort of the different, what are the different options for the ways that somebody can brew it for you there at the coffee shop?
Brandon Burr So we have, we have so many different methods. I mean, we, uh, w- well, let's-
Tim Fulton What are the, what are the call-outs that a customer can do?
Brandon Burr So if, if you want it in a Chemex, you can get it in a Chemex. If you want it-
Tim Fulton What's a Chemex?
Brandon Burr A Chemex is a, it's a, a glass vessel and it has a very, very fine paper filter. I mean, it's been around forever. I think it got its patent in like 1941.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Brandon Burr And, uh, they used to actually blow the glass here in the United States, and now that's outsourced, but they're still made in Pennsylvania. It's just a really pretty, um, piece of coffee equipment. It's actually in the Museum of Modern, Modern Art.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Brandon Burr But it produces a fantastic cup of coffee. So it's just a, it's a cone pour-over, so you just have a cone shape on the top. You pour water over the top of the coffee in a very specific way, and y- the resulting beverage is delicious. So then we have a clever coffee dripper, which is like, it uses the same principle as a home maker. Like, it has the, has the same kind of filter, like a number two, number four filter, and it's just a steep and release. So the coffee sits in there with hot water, and then you put it on top of a cup and it releases, and I really like that way. It's like a cleaned-up French press-
Tim Fulton Okay
Brandon Burr ... essentially. And then we have the French press. There's great versions of that, and there's okay versions of that. I'm not a huge fan of it because there's not a lot of purity in the cup, but again, like, if you're a dark roast person, French press just adds to that sensation. You know, gives you more body and gives you more of that carbonic flavor if you're into it. In addition to that, we have, uh, Hario V60, which is another cone. It's, uh, the filter isn't as fine as like a Chemex, so you get a lot of flavor notes out of it. A lot of like, a lot of the solubles come through that filter, so there's a lot of flavor highlights. So y- if you put a really not so great coffee into that kind of method, you would be highlighting some of those not so great flavors.
Tim Fulton Gotcha.
Brandon Burr So you need to have a good coffee for that method in my eyes.
Tim Fulton How would you recommend someone sort of discovering their favorite cup of coffee?
Brandon Burr I think that just, just being open-minded and trying as many things as you possibly can. You don't know if you like something until you try it.
Tim Fulton Absolutely.
Brandon Burr So if, uh, if you wanna try something, if you wanna come to our shops and try something and, uh, you're really confused on what to get or, just ask a barista and they should be able to guide you through the process and give you a good idea of what you might like-
Tim Fulton Or even s-
Brandon Burr ... according to what you already do like.
Tim Fulton Or y- yeah, i- indeed, just walk up to them and say, "This is the kind of coffee I normally have."
Brandon Burr Right.
Tim Fulton How much do you judge people that, like, pour a ton of sugar in their coffee?
Brandon Burr No judgment. I mean, everyone's palate's-
Tim Fulton Great
Brandon Burr ... everyone's palate's different.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Brandon Burr So I've seen people take, like, I saw someone take a 90, a mid-90 point coffee and put pumpkin syrup in it. And that just recently happened, and it hurt my heart a little bit.
Tim Fulton Right.
Brandon Burr But at the same time, if that person doesn't enjoy that cup of coffee and they had to put a little sugar in there to make it, uh, more-
Tim Fulton Palatable-
Brandon Burr Yeah
Tim Fulton ... for them
Brandon Burr ... abs- absolutely, then you know what? That's them, you know? There's, there's no judgment passed on those people. I-
Tim Fulton But it still hurts your heart a little bit.
Brandon Burr It does, 'cause I just know the hard work that went into it to put that pumpkin syrup into the coffee. So it's okay.
Tim Fulton Can you speak to the coffee scene in Columbus and sort of how you've seen it evolve and sort of what you like in cert- in terms of trends that are happening?
Brandon Burr Yeah. Absolutely. So I've been in coffee for over 10 years now, and when I first got into coffee, there was several-
Tim Fulton How did you get started in coffee? Just working as, as a barista, or-
Brandon Burr So yeah. So I kinda fell into it. I, I went to culinary school for a little bit and fell into a management job at a local coffee company and then just worked my way up and started getting into it a little bit more, and then found my way to Crimson Cup.
Tim Fulton Can I ask where that was?
Brandon Burr It was at Nordstrom Espresso Bar.
Tim Fulton Ah.
Brandon Burr Yes.
Tim Fulton Ah.
Brandon Burr So I, I, uh, it was a lot of fun. So yeah, it just, it just led me to Crimson Cup, which really made me evolve as a coffee professional. But Columbus in general has just become o- one of the best places for coffee in the United States. I think that we're super underrated, and people don't realize that-
Tim Fulton Well, under-recognized
Brandon Burr ... under-recognized-
Tim Fulton Right
Brandon Burr ... for sure, because people, people I think from Pittsburgh, from Dayton, from Cincinnati, I mean, even those, tho- all those places, Indianapolis, all those places have great roasters. I think that Columbus has a really good concentration of really high-end roasters. I mean, there's so many, so many good people in town doing a lot of, doing a lot of in- innovation, and that's the thing. If you want something different, you can come to Columbus and try what... I think we're, we're leading the pack, and they can try something that is new and exciting.
Tim Fulton Is there sort of any recognition for Columbus? You know, you see all these, you know, number six best place for young professionals-
Brandon Burr Right
Tim Fulton ... and is Columbus sort of receiving accolades like that for its coffee?
Brandon Burr I think there's been a few articles here and there about it. We won, uh, Roaster of the Year. Through Roast Magazine and-
Tim Fulton Crimson Cup did
Brandon Burr ... Crimson Cup did. Though that is about us, at the same time, I think things like that can only bring attention to the Columbus coffee market. You know, I had several roasters reach out to me and say, "Hey, man, congrats. Thanks for doing, you know, for pushing this through and, you know, doing a press release about this," because this is kind of a big deal for Columbus, and it brings more attention to everyone within the market, within the industry. More things like that can only help. And, you know, you got the guys down at OneLine going to competitions and stuff, getting a lot of accolades for that. You know, the guys at Briosso and Mission doing awesome things, Fox In The Snow, all these, all these different cafes that are doing some, some great things. And, uh, I think as we continue to grow as a community, and we get closer and closer and closer, and we start, start doing more events, the more recognition we're gonna get.
Tim Fulton Are there Columbus-centric events that people can check out to sample the different roastings, learn more, not just from... While I'm sure your experience from customer education is fantastic, if somebody wanted to sort of sample what Columbus has to offer, are those things available?
Brandon Burr Well, last weekend we had the, the Columbus Coffee Cr- Caffeine Crawl. That's a, that's an annual event, and that's something where this, this company out of Kansas City, Missouri, they, they do this in different cities around the United States, and they picked us up last year.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Brandon Burr And this year w- I think was a, a great success again. They had two days of tours, so a lot of people grabbed onto that and got to experience different, different coffee companies in, in Columbus. In addition to that, there's the Coffee Trail.
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm.
Brandon Burr You know, the, the, the Columbus Coffee Experience as well. I think as we grow, there's gonna have to be an event that highlights all of us roasters and all, all of the shops, 'cause, I mean, there's, there's a, I think there's a demand for it within the market.
Tim Fulton Great. Talk about sort of what guides your work in terms of sustainability, in terms of fair trade, and I know that b- given that it's a commodity, it's something that people talk about a lot.
Brandon Burr Right. So I think something that, that we are super passionate about is our own direct trade program. We call it Friend of Farmer, and it's, we have criteria for it, and we're actually developing it a little bit further and, and holding ourselves... We r- really wanna hold ourselves accountable for what we're saying we're doing, and we want people to be able to, um, see the traceability, 100% traceability to, to the process and to the product. We work within several different countries like Guatemala and Honduras and, you know, I was just in Peru for my third year down there, and we're doing some projects with these people, and we work with agronomists in those areas, and we, we really try to increase the quality of the cup, 'cause I personally think that that's part of sustainability, is-
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm
Brandon Burr ... you know, consumers want higher, better graded coffee. We wanna provide that, and farmers need education, and, and bringing in agronomists from the local area into those farms to help, you know, educate is a, is a huge part of that.
Tim Fulton And I'm sorry, for those that don't know, what's an agronomist?
Brandon Burr An agronomist is someone that, uh, is familiar with agriculture. So-
Tim Fulton Okay
Brandon Burr ... like, just, just production, cultivation of crops, and understanding botany, and I think that it's, it has to be area specific-
Tim Fulton Okay
Brandon Burr ... 'cause, you know, soil is different in every area.
Tim Fulton It's different every- all around the world, right.
Brandon Burr Absolutely, and different varietals and, you know, different farming methods and cultures as well. I mean, you gotta, you gotta really understand the culture that, that is within that coffee-growing country. So I think that's something that we're super passionate about, is, is bringing that story to the consumers, again, bringing that transparency to the consumer so that they understand this is a person behind this cup, and there's, there's a lot of people that depend on you enjoying this cup of coffee, you know, and, uh, appreciating that it's, it's not just a small commodity product. It's, it's something greater. It's someone's livelihood.
Tim Fulton I just wanna turn it on its head just a little bit-
Brandon Burr Yeah
Tim Fulton ... and say are there, what do you roll your eyes at, and, you know, what are the bad things that are happening? Gas station coffee.
Brandon Burr Right.
Tim Fulton Uh, Starbucks. Is there... Everybody's trying to provide a, a, this commodity-
Brandon Burr Right
Tim Fulton ... a cup of coffee to people. What are the, quote-unquote, "bad ways" that that's happening?
Brandon Burr For me personally, I hate when we talk about origin-specific coffee at, like, really big, really big places, that they're just saying it because it's, it's sexy, or, you know, it, it-
Tim Fulton Because people like saying the word Guatemala?
Brandon Burr Yeah, Guatemala or Brazil, Brazilian coffee. And the, the reality behind a lot of those places is that, you know, they're buying commercial grade coffee.
Tim Fulton These are factory farms.
Brandon Burr Yes.
Tim Fulton Right.
Brandon Burr So, uh, factory farms are, these are farms that are, y- you know, these are collectors getting coffee from small farms that, you know, aren't being paid what they need to be paid or not being-
Tim Fulton Because there's a middleman-
Brandon Burr Absolutely
Tim Fulton ... sort of acquiring things that simply go into a silo.
Brandon Burr Absolutely. There's good and bad in any industry, and people take advantage of other people, uh, especially when there's a lack of communication, but that's the great thing about the, the evolution of our world, the globalization. You know, I think that with, with the access to internet in the middle of nowhere, which is just insane to be-
Tim Fulton Right
Brandon Burr ... in the middle of a, a jungle and have internet. I think that with that, farmers are being educated, and they're starting to understand what, what they need to know to sell their coffee, to sell their product. As, you know, the more they know about their product, the more, the more money they can get for it or the better they can represent it. And I think that, you know, there's just a lot of companies out there that push the, the sexy side of coffee when the reality of the situation is it's someone's livelihood, and it, it, you know, we've, we've gotta treat it like that.
Tim Fulton While I'm sure you guys aren't the cheapest coffee supplier-
Brandon Burr Right
Tim Fulton ... can you speak to the economics and sort of the financial end of it, and how are you able to, while selling this commodity, where you need to keep the margins as tight as you can-
Brandon Burr Right
Tim Fulton ... able to invest the time in, one, doing those travels, making relationships with farmers, having an innovation lab where you're truly sort of linking up the coffee that you discover and then finding the best way to roast it in order to gain the ranking that, that it can, that a cup-
Brandon Burr Right
Tim Fulton ... of coffee can. Because I imagine some beans can't be a 96.
Brandon Burr Right.
Tim Fulton So-
Brandon Burr No, that's the case for sure
Tim Fulton ... is it simply sort of that's your goal, and so that's why you do it that way?
Brandon Burr I mean, yes. I mean, that's, that's such a great question. I, I think-
Tim Fulton How do you do it?
Brandon Burr How do we do it? Open communication relationships. So it's, it's funny, like, going from a corporate setting to going to a small business setting, usually you find it to be a little bit more lax in the small business, and it's not... You know, there's not as many, like, things that are black and white. There's a lot of gray.
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm.
Brandon Burr I think that, um, it's even greater in the coffee industry, you know, going from corporate coffee to, to regular, like, to o- like, a small business like us. We... There's a lot of gray. There's a lot of feelings, and in business, you know, that might not necessarily be the best way to, to look at things. But at the same time, we're all people, and, uh, it doesn't matter if you're in, in the jungles of, you know, Papua New Guinea, or if you're in New York City, we should all be treated the same, and we should all, we should all have open relationships with ether- w- with each other, and open communication and understanding. And so I think that us just being completely honest and saying, "Hey, we need to make this mutually beneficial. I wanna help you, but at the same time, I have those cost of goods that I have to worry about."
Tim Fulton Right.
Brandon Burr "I'm a business, and I... And, and, you know, uh..." Greg has to think about it all the time, like, you know, "I've gotta support these 50 employees," or whatever. And so there's, there's numbers that go into it, but at the same time, there's feelings, and there's, there's relationships, and I think that a solid foundation, a, a good relationship will get you further in the future. It's, it's long-term investment, and again, it's sustainability rather than instant gratification.
Tim Fulton Great. Brandon, thank you so much for your time.
Brandon Burr No, thank you, man.
Tim Fulton Yeah.
Brandon Burr Really appreciate it.
Tim Fulton This week, the Confluence Cast is sponsored by Destination Donuts. Their unique, decadent donuts use quality ingredients. They never put any preservatives, additives, or other fake stuff in their goodies, and they strive to use locally sourced ingredients whenever possible. Swing by their locations in the North Market and select coffee shops throughout Columbus to take care of your donut fix. You'll be glad you did. Check out their flavors and locations at destinationdonuts.com. Sitting down here with Jeff Davis, owner of Cafe Brioso, celebrating round about 15 years in business on East Gay Street. Just this year, is that right, opened the Long Street location?
Jeff Davis January 4th.
Tim Fulton Great, great. And how's Long Street going?
Jeff Davis It's going very well. You know, the point of that expansion was to expand our coffee brand and our production ability, so that was number one, nailing down all that, working with now a satellite location in two locations, ironing out how the coffee flows.
Tim Fulton Mm.
Jeff Davis That's gone very well. Uh, we're starting to see a lot more cup traffic 'cause we have a coffee bar there as well-
Tim Fulton Okay
Jeff Davis ... uh, with the students of CCAD and Columbus State coming back, and-
Tim Fulton Yeah
Jeff Davis ... having, you know, nine months of business in, we're, we're now starting to see some very good cup traffic, so.
Tim Fulton Well, that, um, kinda sucks that it had to wait so long for that sort of traffic to increase, right?
Jeff Davis We knew it was gonna be a long wait when we signed the lease. So we knew we had, you know, a year plus before the landlord was gonna work on the space and, and we would be in there. And then of course there were delays on top of that.
Tim Fulton Right.
Jeff Davis Uh, you know, so the goal had been to open before school started up in the fall-
Tim Fulton Okay
Jeff Davis ... of 2015.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Jeff Davis And then we got open in January. You know, it's winter. The students were gone for a while. The residential neighborhood is being built all around us.
Tim Fulton Yeah.
Jeff Davis So that's a... You know, people moving in all the time, but everything is still being built.
Tim Fulton Right. Let's, uh, let's go back 15 years.
Jeff Davis Okay.
Tim Fulton How did you start Brioso?
Jeff Davis Well, I started in the coffee business in 1995. I was fortunate enough to get a job at Stauf's Coffee Roasters, which was really, you know, pretty much the only game in town. Uh, Crimson Cup obviously existed back then, too, but they... I see Stauf's as really what started the specialty coffee movement in Columbus.
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm.
Jeff Davis You know, going back as late, early as 1988, I think they opened. Uh, so I was lucky to pursue a job and, and get a job in the production space at Stauf's, and, you know, I worked my butt off every day, uh, until I got an opportunity to train to roast, uh, become-
Tim Fulton 'Cause you were doing, like, delivery work at that time.
Jeff Davis Yeah, I started as a delivery driver, the person that, uh, added the flavoring to the flavor-added coffee.
Tim Fulton Okay. Is that just dumping a bag of sugar-
Jeff Davis So that's just, you know-
Tim Fulton ... into something, or?
Jeff Davis Uh, there, there are specific, uh, flavor oils they're called-
Tim Fulton Okay
Jeff Davis ... where you would apply them to the beans as a percentage by weight.
Tim Fulton Oh, okay. So this is not, like, pouring-
Jeff Davis So all, all post-roast
Tim Fulton ... in the sugary syrup into-
Jeff Davis Right.
Tim Fulton Okay. And you came to Columbus to be a student at, uh, Capital.
Jeff Davis I went to school at Capital, yes.
Tim Fulton And what'd you study there?
Jeff Davis Political science.
Tim Fulton And how does that translate into coffee?
Jeff Davis It does not.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Jeff Davis Uh, I g- I learned enough about political science to learn that I don't think that's the world for me.
Tim Fulton Okay. That's fair. That's fair.
Jeff Davis You know, I'm kind of a blue collar guy. I like, I like hands-on work. You know, obviously politics still interests me greatly, but, uh, coffee is my passion.
Tim Fulton Okay. Talk to me about how Brioso actually got started.
Jeff Davis Well, I'd gotten a little burned out at Stauf's and, and left, but I had really developed my skills specifically to cupping, tasting coffee, and roasting coffee.
Tim Fulton And can you sort of define cupping?
Jeff Davis Uh, cupping is just the process of evaluating green coffee for purchase-
Tim Fulton Okay
Jeff Davis ... really is how I use it. It's the language that producers, exporters, importers, roasters would all use to communicate about the qualities of coffee.
Tim Fulton Gotcha. And so you'd gained some expertise and said, "I don't necessarily want another job. I don't necessarily wanna work for another person."
Jeff Davis I sought out the coffee business and getting a job at Stauf's because I needed to wake up every day and go to work to do something that I love to do and was passionate about, regardless of how much money I was making or any other circumstances other than I cannot wait to get to work.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Jeff Davis So that's really what drew me to the coffee business. I guess I'd always been kind of an entrepreneurial-minded person, you know, without ha-Having a clear idea of what I wanted to do, always wanted to have my own business. Then when I had the skill and was able to develop the skill of, of roasting coffee, I thought it was time to kinda take the plunge. I wasn't really actively working on another business when I left Stauf's, but my mom called me one day and said, you know, knew it was a dream to own my own business. I had talked about opening a coffee place. She calls me and says, "Hey, we have a little bit of seed money. I want you to get started on this full-time." That was, that was the call that got it, you know, and then really the next morning, you know, that's my full-time job.
Tim Fulton And so that's when you start looking for spaces, when you start figuring out, you know-
Jeff Davis Yeah, I hired a com- I hired a business consultant first.
Tim Fulton Okay, smart.
Jeff Davis You know, had definitely done a lot of reading.
Tim Fulton What was that process like? For tho- for those that are thinking about starting their own business, that's obviously a way to do it. What was it like working with a business consultant, getting it all going?
Jeff Davis Uh, I think that he kinda just took worrying about the whole big thing away from me, and then fed me weekly, you know, we would have a weekly meeting, and then each week he would feed me the next step and give me a list of homework.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Jeff Davis I don't think that I could have done it nearly as well without a business consultant. It was-
Tim Fulton Certainly not as efficiently
Jeff Davis ... a little bit of an investment, but it wasn't a reach-
Tim Fulton Right
Jeff Davis ... at all, and I thought that was, you know, maybe the best money that I had spent on the whole project-
Tim Fulton Right
Jeff Davis ... right from the get-go.
Tim Fulton Is it sort of a process where the first week they're like, "Okay, now you get incorporated. Now you set up a bank account. Now you look for a location."
Jeff Davis Yes.
Tim Fulton "Now you price out the cost of build-out. Now you price out the cost of equipment." You then go and do the homework, bring it back to them, and they may even say, "Uh, this doesn't seem reasonable."
Jeff Davis Right.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Jeff Davis Yes.
Tim Fulton Were there points like that where you were like, "I want the biggest roaster so that I can go into..." 'Cause you weren't in wholesale, you guys were just doing, you were just roasting for yourselves at that point.
Jeff Davis Yeah, I was only, as far as the, the roaster was concerned, was only focused on roasting coffee for us.
Tim Fulton Right. Do you guys roast at the Gay Street location anymore?
Jeff Davis No.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Jeff Davis There'll be bigger and better things to come for that location.
Tim Fulton Why is that?
Jeff Davis Well, one, just the practical, you know, it, it doesn't make a whole lot of sense. I wasn't really sure when we opened the roastery how I was gonna handle that, just because it was part of the neighborhood, and, and me being there, and the roaster being there, you know, sells a lot of beans, brings people into the store. It's just been part of, of that corner for 15 years, and-
Tim Fulton Right
Jeff Davis ... I wasn't sure what was gonna happen with that. Mainly at this point, you know, the neighborhood is evolving and changing, and there's big investment going on surrounding our location, and, you know, we need to kind of reinvest and, and renovate the store to match that, and match what the neighborhood-
Tim Fulton Yeah, so what you're saying is getting more seats in there, being able to sort of serve more people, because that's the primary business of that location.
Jeff Davis Yeah, kind of fixing some of the mistakes that I made in the 15 years ago on the design.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Jeff Davis Uh, being a little bit more high volume, uh, being able to improve our kitchen, mainly with the space and equipment and facilities which will allow us to do more and more interesting food, potentially stuff on the weekends like brunch.
Tim Fulton What other mistakes do you think that you made at the time that you opened, or what other sort of mistakes did you make in the past-
Jeff Davis I mean, the-
Tim Fulton ... 15 years?
Jeff Davis ... the location, finding the space was very difficult. You know-
Tim Fulton Okay
Jeff Davis ... we had done our homework on all the neighborhoods that were good neighborhoods. Most of them were either... Most of them were connected to downtown, so they were centrally located, but it wasn't downtown. All the neighborhoods connecting, Clintonville was a-
Tim Fulton Appealing
Jeff Davis ... probably the-
Tim Fulton Yeah
Jeff Davis ... the top choice at the time, and I just wasn't... was getting very discouraged, honestly, about finding the space. We had not looked at downtown, so I drove downtown, parked in the alley, and said, "I'm just gonna, I'm just gonna walk all these streets and see something that visually appeals to me. This is where I wanna come to work every day."
Tim Fulton Well, and for those that don't know, Gay Street was a lot different back then.
Jeff Davis Yeah, you know, downtown was, was rough. It wasn't very appealing, but Gay, Gay Street actually kind of stood out-
Tim Fulton Okay
Jeff Davis ... with all the small buildings that were left. It had that charming appeal, especially to pedestrians.
Tim Fulton Still a walkable little strip.
Jeff Davis Still walkable. You know, all the changes that have been made since we've been there have, you know, really made it much more walkable.
Tim Fulton Fantastic. Fantastic.
Jeff Davis So I s- I saw that the, you know, the city and other business leaders had identified that corridor as a place that's gonna do well and help bring downtown up.
Tim Fulton When did you make the decision to basically expand, to move into the Long Street location?
Jeff Davis Well, I knew when it would get uncomfortable with the production of the coffee and the roasting that it would be time to get a bigger machine.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Jeff Davis So we had hit that point and been there for a couple years where, you know, that roaster is maxed out.
Tim Fulton Okay. You're literally roasting as much as you possibly can-
Jeff Davis Right
Tim Fulton ... and still trying to keep up.
Jeff Davis So initially I looked at, you know, upgrading our production capabilities in the context of staying in the space, which just was not possible. A larger roaster was not gonna fit in there. Uh, other problems like getting green coffee delivered at the corner of High and Gay became very difficult.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Jeff Davis Uh-
Tim Fulton Well, I imagine some storage issues too, right?
Jeff Davis You know, we were storing coffee in the basement, so we would unload bags, sometimes possibly from High Street while sitting in the bus lane, move them one by one into the elevator, down to the basement, move them back up when you need to start using them. It was a lot of work and very inefficient.
Tim Fulton And that's not a great elevator, I have to say.
Jeff Davis No. So it was clear if we were going to do more with our production, we needed to do it somewhere else.
Tim Fulton Okay. And you chose to stay in downtown. It is a less sort of traveled, less pedestrian-friendly area of downtown, but it's certainly not, you know, a warehouse district or s- you know, something by the airport.
Jeff Davis Right. We had kinda looked at, at a warehouse first. We would've been able to get up and running a lot sooner. The very first thing I did was purchase the roaster-
Tim Fulton Okay
Jeff Davis ... and then went to find a space. Uh-
Tim Fulton Was that cart before the horse a little bit?
Jeff Davis Uh, yeah, I guess looking back it, it turned out that way.
Tim Fulton Okay. Not to be critical at all.
Jeff Davis I, I, I don't... Well, it was a, a unique situation where the roaster was in the United States because it was at the annual coffee convention.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Jeff Davis So it had already been imported, there was a discount. It was an opportunity that needed to be jumped on right away.
Tim Fulton Is it fair to say that that was actually the impetus for going ahead and moving forward with the new space?
Jeff Davis Yeah.
Tim Fulton Okay, awesome.
Jeff Davis It, it had to happen, but something has to happen first, you know?
Tim Fulton Right.
Jeff Davis The first domino has to fall.
Tim Fulton Sometimes that's the way that stuff happens.
Jeff Davis So it turns out that that's the way that it was. We had looked at moving into a warehouse. I, I like being able to sell cups of coffee next to the roaster.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Jeff Davis I like the process being visible. I like people coming into the store. You know, I like interacting with customers.
Tim Fulton Well, and seeing the whole process. Now, where do you purchase most of your beans from?
Jeff Davis I use a couple bigger coffee importers-
Tim Fulton Okay
Jeff Davis ... that actually own their own warehouses in the US. So they're the only two importers that own their warehouses.
Tim Fulton You know it's coming and when it's coming.
Jeff Davis Yes, they're, they're very good with getting the coffee to us on time. I've worked with both for a long time. One of them, I've worked with almost our entire history.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Jeff Davis And I work with a, a direct trade relationship with a coffee farmer in Colombia that I'm in contact with, you know, through text messaging, Facebook, other social media, email, on a regular basis.
Tim Fulton Uh-huh.
Jeff Davis And they've actually been to our shop numerous times. Another, what I would call a boutique importer, called 90+ Coffee. Really super high-end coffees, very limited, very small amounts.
Tim Fulton What is the name of the score? 90+ is a reference-
Jeff Davis 90, yes, 90+ is a reference to the cupping score.
Tim Fulton Right.
Jeff Davis So their company was kinda based on the idea that we're only gonna bring in coffees that would score above a 90 out of 100 in the cupping score, with the goal of getting multiples of the market prices that farmers are paid for coffee, getting them multiples of that in return for cup quality.
Tim Fulton So in addition to trying to maintain sort of a fair trade business model, you've also done a little bit of endeavoring and moving towards endeavoring into social enterprise activities. Can you talk about that a little bit?
Jeff Davis Yeah. Uh, we have a relationship with Starfish Alliance that serves the foster care community in central Ohio, all age groups. The specific program we're involved with is Link 22, serve foster kids who have turned 18 and were not adopted by their foster parents.
Tim Fulton They've aged out.
Jeff Davis They've aged out. Like, I was in college, and, and, and most of us, you have support system-
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm
Jeff Davis ... of parents, family members, friends, places to crash, you know?
Tim Fulton Right.
Jeff Davis And if you need money, you're in a tough spot, you have somebody to go to to help you. These kids don't have that. They might not have the, the mentoring that you need in early adulthood to, to kinda find your way. So I, I thought that, that coffee and our training program would be a really good fit for those kids to kinda teach them communication, life skills, uh, you know, simple things like following recipes, working with other people.
Tim Fulton Right.
Jeff Davis Um-
Tim Fulton And while it is a pretty specific trade that l- you just outlined certainly a lot of skills that are applicable in a lot of different areas. So what, what is the nature of your partnership, then? Is it, is it simply the training and-
Jeff Davis Yeah, we had worked on a concept to open a very small coffee bar, and we would train them. Eventually, they would run the coffee bar, and there would be kind of a tiered training based on, based on success. So if you're successfully have become a barista, then, then next we're gonna start working on you being a manager.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Jeff Davis If you've successfully become a manager, then we're gonna train you to think like an entrepreneur and a business owner.
Tim Fulton Is this a project that's still in process, like-
Jeff Davis So the, the coffee bar-
Tim Fulton ... still trying to make that happen?
Jeff Davis ... the coffee bar idea is off the table for the moment.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Jeff Davis Uh, and so we're working on an internship with hopefully at least two interns that we will train regular baristas for our company, and they'll also have a... The enterprise piece would be the interns kinda developing their own coffee brand, maybe engaging in some markets that the Brioso Coffee doesn't and might be a better fit for them, like office coffee, fundraiser type of coffee, to pay for their internship.
Tim Fulton That's great.
Jeff Davis And then, and then all of the, the entire program, Link 22, that Starfish is doing, we will use the Brioso Coffee space for all. There's a number of other organizations and, and layers to the program that don't directly involve us.
Tim Fulton Gotcha. Let's turn a little bit. Since you've opened the Long Street location, you are doing wholesale now.
Jeff Davis Yes.
Tim Fulton How's that going in terms of business development, and what sort of main lines of work have you been in?
Jeff Davis You know, we were very confident in our product.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Jeff Davis But when we start looking at getting serious about, about wholesaling, there was just a lot of things due to the nature of the business at Cafe Brioso, how busy... You know, it's a high-volume cafe.
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm.
Jeff Davis You really are just kind of reactive to what happens every day, and-
Tim Fulton Right, you're putting out fires
Jeff Davis ... not proactive.
Tim Fulton Right.
Jeff Davis So, you know, being in that space gave us some time to sit down and be more proactive about it, and, you know, we... At this point, we've kinda determined that we have a lot of work to do before we really wanna make a push to do a lot of wholesaling.
Tim Fulton It's fair to say you are literally in a time of transition-
Jeff Davis Yes
Tim Fulton ... of like, you've gotten that Long Street location up-
Jeff Davis Yes
Tim Fulton ... and, like, now you're sort of able to stand up, look over, you know, your domain, and say, "Okay, what do we do now?"
Jeff Davis And we, and we also have to, to manage a high-volume cafe-
Tim Fulton Right
Jeff Davis ... from a, from almost another location. You know, I'm at both locations every day.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Jeff Davis But I'm trying to learn how to manage that place without me being there all the time, and I, I think that was a bit of an adjustment.
Tim Fulton Is that difficult for you-
Jeff Davis Yeah, we-
Tim Fulton ... to sort of take your hands off a little bit more?
Jeff Davis You know, we, well, we took, we took strong people out of that location and put them into the new location, and then just the whole new thing of having two businesses.
Tim Fulton Right.
Jeff Davis It's entirely different.
Tim Fulton Yeah. Other than having two businesses and sort of the added just labor on you, what do you find is the most difficult part of owning a business? Is it sort of managing those people? Is it the business hoops that you have to jump through? Is it the budgeting? Is it the finance? What, what, what are the things that you not necessarily struggle with, but certainly take up a lot more time than you thought was going to?
Jeff Davis Day to day, it's, it's managing the people.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Jeff Davis Personally, I'd say I struggle more with the, the office type of work, you know, being a hands-on guy, being a coffee roaster.
Tim Fulton Because you don't wanna go to the back office-
Jeff Davis Right
Tim Fulton ... and do it. Right.
Jeff Davis I, I'm in the office and I can hear what's going on, uh, in the cafe, and I would certainly much rather be there. You know, the finance, the numbers-
Tim Fulton Doing payroll sucks, man
Jeff Davis ... staying on top of that, I do have some... My mom is a partner in the business, and she's-
Tim Fulton Okay
Jeff Davis ... a fantastic help, coming down a couple days and really helping with the bulk of the office work. Now, technology has changed quite a bit since we've opened, and have definitely made all the numbers and dollars, made that much, much easier-
Tim Fulton You don't have a notebook anymore
Jeff Davis ... to deal with and stay on top of it
Tim Fulton You have a laptop, right?
Jeff Davis Right.
Tim Fulton Because you are from Kenton, Ohio.
Jeff Davis Small town, northwest Ohio.
Tim Fulton And so your mom's still up there-
Jeff Davis Yes
Tim Fulton ... and comes down?
Jeff Davis Comes down-
Tim Fulton Awesome
Jeff Davis ... a couple days a week.
Tim Fulton Jeff, can you talk a little bit about sort of the experience at Briosso, what you see a customer experiencing, and also sort of what you wish a customer would know about coffee? I think that a vast majority of the population drinks it. I don't know that they know a whole lot about it.
Jeff Davis Yeah, I could probably talk for hours-
Tim Fulton Okay
Jeff Davis ... on that question. Just to back up a little bit, we're coffee guys. We're kinda coffee nerds. Everyone is very passionate about what we do and, and has their own love story with coffee. Um-
Tim Fulton Okay. Do you... Uh, other than Stauf's, do you have a love story?
Jeff Davis I mean, my... You know, before I worked at Stauf's, that, my, what turned me on was going to Stauf's and buying single origin coffee, uh, not putting cream and sugar in it, you know, in the context of the '90s, preparing it well-
Tim Fulton Mm-hmm
Jeff Davis ... and just being blown away at the flavors that are in the coffee.
Tim Fulton Well, and the diversity that's there, right?
Jeff Davis So I think that's always been in my mind. You know, we're, we're kinda purists. Our, our job is to buy really good green coffee. Then we process it by roasting it, and then we use water to extract flavors from it.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Jeff Davis And that's all that we do for every process that we have. So we, we try to keep it-
Tim Fulton But there is a lot that goes into that.
Jeff Davis Yeah, you know, but we try to keep it simple and, you know, to not get off-track on what we're doing.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Jeff Davis Half the quality in your cup of coffee, uh, half of that comes from the green coffee that was used. The other half of it's gonna come from the processing and the grinding and the extracting. So at the cafe, you know, my job is to source the coffee, uh, which would be a process of, of getting green coffee in, sample roasting it, cupping it. Uh, one thing that's changed with the new place is that will now involve more of the staff, instead of just really solely being my job, and-
Tim Fulton Well, 'cause you're able to in terms of space, right?
Jeff Davis Right.
Tim Fulton Right.
Jeff Davis So that, that's been something that's really cool, is to get everybody cupping and to have more input on the process of what coffee I'm buying. 'Cause then when we bring it in, those employees that participated in that have ownership of that already. They know that coffee already. They know what to expect.
Tim Fulton They can talk about it.
Jeff Davis They had a hand in bringing it here.
Tim Fulton They have a passion in selling it.
Jeff Davis And they're, they're making it their own when they're, they're selling it to people. You know, that's really, from the customer's standpoint, our experience is very one-on-one, and we rely on verbal communication to really provide the great experience. We don't have a lot of printed materials. We don't have a lot of stuff to read. You know, we train our people to be able to articulate our products and services to customers.
Tim Fulton Right.
Jeff Davis And, you know, you really, you kinda have to feel out each individual customer to find out where they're at in their coffee journey and the things that they like. The language sometimes gets confusing, 'cause people, coffee shops use different language, you know?
Tim Fulton Well, and it's a whole culture.
Jeff Davis The, the national chain has their own language-
Tim Fulton Right
Jeff Davis ... that none of the rest of us use.
Tim Fulton So they just-
Jeff Davis It can get-
Tim Fulton ... they just made up on their own
Jeff Davis ... it can get confusing.
Tim Fulton Right. What are some of the basic things that you find that people don't know about coffee? Again, it's green, you roast it, you then use water to extract the flavors.
Jeff Davis I think one of the biggest things to, that's hard to understand unless you work with coffee every day, is how much it changes.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Jeff Davis It's never in a state of equilibrium, whether it's on the tree, whether it's in the green form or roasted form. Uh, it will change faster or slower at different points in that change. And, and at the higher end, you know, even if we've done everything well, it's gonna change from day to day. The same coffee is gonna change a little bit over time.
Tim Fulton What's an ideal amount of time from roast to brew?
Jeff Davis Uh, we like to work with everything within a couple weeks.
Tim Fulton Oh, okay.
Jeff Davis Uh, depending on, on where we're gonna plug it in, espresso can last a little bit longer. I definitely wouldn't want anyone buying, purchasing bean coffee or ground and taking it home that was beyond two weeks-
Tim Fulton Okay
Jeff Davis ... assuming that they're gonna consume it in the next two weeks.
Tim Fulton How do you-
Jeff Davis So I, I would like everything to be consumed within a month of coming out of the roaster at worst.
Tim Fulton Okay. Talk to me a little bit about the Columbus coffee culture and sort of what you've seen over the past 15 years.
Jeff Davis Well, I guess, uh, when we opened the cafe in 2001, there were really two players in the market.
Tim Fulton Two games in town, right?
Jeff Davis Yeah, uh, Stauf's and, and Crimson Cup.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Jeff Davis Crimson Cup, I believe, did not have a storefront, was just a, a wholesale roasting facility at that point.
Tim Fulton Right.
Jeff Davis Uh, the, the third wave coffee is starting to take hold in other places, like San Francisco, Seattle, Portland, more West Coast happening first.
Tim Fulton What do you mean by third wave?
Jeff Davis Uh, sometimes we describe the industry in, in waves-
Tim Fulton Right
Jeff Davis ... as far as, like, what its focus was. Uh, first wave, second wave, third wave.
Tim Fulton Right.
Jeff Davis You know, the, the market is just learning about specialty coffee. So there was a lot of focus on roast, large lattes with gobs of flavored syrups. You come into a coffee shop, and there's, there's 100 choices of syrups that you can add with whipped cream on top. So we're making, you know-
Tim Fulton Do you make that-
Jeff Davis ... we're making milkshakes. Uh-
Tim Fulton It's not coffee.
Jeff Davis It's-
Tim Fulton Is that what you're saying?
Jeff Davis That's not... It's a milkshake.
Tim Fulton Okay. That's fair.
Jeff Davis But if that's your-
Tim Fulton That's absolutely fair
Jeff Davis ... if, if that's your access point to coffee, like, I don't wanna be a coffee snob and, and sit here and say that that offends me, because that's bringing people into the market. Eventually, some of those people are gonna think, "Isn't there something more interesting or better for me to experience in the coffee world?"
Tim Fulton Right.
Jeff Davis And those people might go towards a shorter drink, like a cappuccino or a- Or black coffee.
Tim Fulton Right. Who else, again, when you got started, it, there were only a couple of games in town. Who else now is doing good work, whether they be a r- roaster or just a coffee shop?
Jeff Davis The thing I hate about this question is my fear of leaving somebody that's doing a good job out.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Jeff Davis And that's a, that's a good problem to have. You know, I kinda felt like we were on an island when we opened up in that we had to still sell the idea of specialty coffee to people. Now, having other coffee businesses in town, especially the roasters that we've seen in really the last, I guess, 10 years it's been happening, is we don't really have to push the idea of specialty coffee as much.
Tim Fulton Because people understand it?
Jeff Davis And it's just in general become more popular.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Jeff Davis So now we can focus on, like, our interpretation, our style, and the way that we like to do things.
Tim Fulton And so there's no sort of infighting among that community. It's much more like-
Jeff Davis Uh, well, I mean, you know, I, I think that part of the success, we're all of us working with each other. Uh, there's, there's still a website out there that exists from 2008, 2009, Columbus Coffee, I believe.
Tim Fulton Okay.
Jeff Davis So we started working together back then. Uh, Andy Luck from Luck Brothers was, was one of the initial people.
Tim Fulton Well, and now you guys are doing the coffee experience fr- through Experience Columbus.
Jeff Davis Yeah, so, you know, we, we definitely, uh, spent time with each other, uh, did events called Barista Jams-
Tim Fulton Okay
Jeff Davis ... where we all get together and, and make coffee, have some fun little competitions, interact with each other. It's a networking event for-
Tim Fulton Right
Jeff Davis ... for coffee nerds.
Tim Fulton Well, similar to, like, a cocktail competition-
Jeff Davis Right
Tim Fulton ... or something like that.
Jeff Davis That really fostered a sense of community among the coffee people locally, so I, I think that's been a big part of our success. Uh, the Columbus, the coffee roast that was done at the North Market was one of the first times I remember everybody sitting in a room at the same time having a conversation. Uh, so that, that was a big event. Uh, whenever we go to the national events, we all support and hang out with each other.
Tim Fulton Right.
Jeff Davis Uh, we go to each other's shops. Uh, we're more than happy, you know, when you get, when you get a customer that you know is, is really turned on to specialty coffee, or they're from out of town, it's, "Hey, you need to go to this place, and this place, and this place."
Tim Fulton Right.
Jeff Davis So it's-
Tim Fulton Well, and it's great to sort of see that that sort of spirit of-
Jeff Davis You don't wanna be the only one.
Tim Fulton Right. Well, and it's good to see that spirit of collaboration, that it is also within the coffee community as well.
Jeff Davis So a- you know, with the success that's, that's come with that, it's gotten a little bit tougher, but I feel like we're all friends, and we all speak very well of each other. That's a big part of why Columbus has a scene to the point where somebody like Experience Columbus gravitates to it-
Tim Fulton And sees it, yeah
Jeff Davis ... to use it for, for what their mission is.
Tim Fulton Great. Jeff, thank you so much for your time today, and best of luck with the wholesale business and the new location, and it sounds like everything's going gangbusters.
Jeff Davis Yes. Uh, thank you. Uh, pleasure to be here. Thank you.
Tim Fulton Absolutely. Thank you for listening to the Confluence Cast presented by Columbus Underground. Again, you can get more information on what we discussed today in the show notes for this episode at theconfluencecast.com. Please rate, subscribe, share this episode of the Confluence Cast with your friends, your family, contacts, enemies, your local roaster. We can be reached by email at info@theconfluencecast.com. Our theme music was composed by Benji Robinson. I'm your host, Tim Fulton. Have a good week.
